for the past month, i must have spent over 150 hours in the water. just non stop surfing! today was no different as i spent 6 hours in the beautiful sun. it finally warmed up and felt so good. super warm weather for the next 10 days as big waves and light winds will make perfect north shore surfing conditions. hopefully to get a big barrel soon!

Minemura-san and Yurika-san are here for their honeymoon. first time in hawaii so i was excited to show them around. a very happy couple with lots of energy and lots of power. after our awesome morning session, we drove over to kailua because they wanted to look at “Heaven’s Beach” or also known as Lanikai Beach. it was freaking beautiful on the east side!

as i drove past kailua beach, i seen an “Open House” sign so i took them to check out this amazing house right on the beach. yes, i’m a fake realtor. haha.

welcome to the million dollar view. opps, i mean $8M view. 4 stories, 5 bedrooms, pool, jacuzzi, and even an elevator in the house. we checked in and out of each room and found out what $8,000,000 can buy in hawaii. a little out of our price range. good job surfing and had a lot of fun Minemura-san and Yurika-san! keep on surfing.

then i went surfing with Matsushita-san this afternoon. Matsushita-san came to hawaii many many of times and knows this island very well. he was always interested in surfing and today was his debut. surfed a very long session and caught so many good long waves. great job Matsushita-san! stoked you stood up on your first wave! keep on surfing.

oh, wanted to thank Yoshimi-san from Island Aroma in okinawa for giving Enomoto-san this soap for me. Mozuku hand soap? can i eat it? haha. i can’t wait to scrub my dirty body with this amazing soap. thank you and hope to see you in okinawa sometime soon. haisai!

Surf Your Dream!

in japan, there is one day out of the year when the sun rises aligned with Mt. Fuji. i never got to see it before but someday i will. in hawaii, i can watch the diamond of diamond head sunrise for 2 months. all i have to do is jump on the boat and align myself with diamond head and the sunrise. then i take the photo and have a beautiful day. isn’t this amazing?

there are only a handful of houses in hawaii where you can park a boat in your back yard. someday i will own one of them. the cheapest is about $3M but i’m a big dreamer. and when that day comes, you won’t see me driving a car ever again. i’ll jump on the boat everyday, drive to some yacht club, and jump on a motorcycle that will be parked there. no traffic. sounds like a dream yeah? yeah! but for now, i’ll just go pick up my friends and keep on dreaming. welcome aboard to my photographer cousin Daniel.

Koguma-san and Enomoto-san were very lucky this day. it was the absolutely perfect day to have a hawaiian south shore boat trip. it was just us and the outer reef waves peeling perfectly both ways.

and after a good session, there’s always a good smile. great 4 hour dream session boys!

then we go to the most local of the local stores for lunch. so local that there are no tables. order a plate and eat it on the sidewalk local style.

thank you Koguma-san and Enomoto-san for the dream session and treats. i forgot to tell you that i had just as much fun as you did. and thank you Enomoto-san for sending me the text “PRICELESS.” that is how i live my life and it’s the priceless moments that make life so priceless. keep on surfing boys!