Hard Worker.
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 4-6′ and clean. Laniakea, Rocky Point, and Sunset Point best!
South shore waist high and clean.
East shore 3-5′. Sandy Beach probably good.
Everywhere clean. Light East winds at 5mph.
Overcast but becoming sunny and very warm.
Next week Tuesday 15′ North/West swell!
Surfing 2 rounds today.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, woke up early morning at 5am, drank my kombucha, did my exercise, ate cereal, felt so good, then went surfing.

had a wonderful morning with Hosokawa-san. he is from Yamagata and to tell you the truth, i didn’t know where Yamagata even was. found out it is above niigata and below akita. lots of snow and freezing cold. Hosokawa-san and his wonderful family are here for only 3 days. they came yesterday, and are already going home tomorrow. a very short trip but very long waves. i was so stoked to see Hosokawa-san riding so many long waves in the perfect weather and perfect swells. shoulder high sets, uncrowded, and perfect conditions.

i meet the coolest families all the time. just to see the wife and kids enjoying hawaii makes me really happy. Yuka-san, Hinari-chan, and Sakuya-kun. fun in the sun on the beach, then we ate some hot pho after for lunch.

then took the kids for the best shave ice in the world.

such cuties! rainbow shave ice with ice cream in the bottom. you should have seen their eyes when they reached the ice cream. so cute and so funny!

and i can’t wait to eat this wonderful mochi from Yamagata prefecture. eat a few with kinako, and eat a few wrapped with nori and dipped in shoyu. thank you to the Hosokawa-san family! have a safe flight back to japan tomorrow!

OMG, it was so good!
Thank you Iwasaki-san!