omg, yesterday was yet another perfect surfing day. i caught some really good waves at Bowls in the morning and i couldn’t believe how epic it was. all we talk about these days is our endless summer. more and more swells on the way and there is absolutely no stress in the lineup. so many people are just being cool and letting everybody catch waves. such a cool vibe!

after my morning session, went to Glenn Minami’s factory to pick up my new board. we worked together by comparing magic boards and this is the result. i can’t wait to try it! happy!

then i went to pick up Team Ina and we jumped on Mayuki to search for a perfect uncrowded wave.

i’m so happy we all have one thing in common: to enjoy the ocean to the fullest!

OMG! the waves were perfect and we had it all to ourselves! just taking turns riding wave after wave. check out Yuki-san’s overhead wave!! OMG, so good! this is like indonesia! why am i even going next week? haha. just joking.

Satoko is our amigo from Mexico. always brings fun and laughter to the party. a great person and a great surfer girl!

Katsura-san is a very important part to the perfect team. her hands are magic and can make a person feel 10 years younger in 10 minutes!

the wave of the day! Ina Would Go! OMG, Inaida-san caught his last wave and rode it perfectly. perfect style and big perfect wave! i was so stoked to surf such a magical secret spot yesterday with these wonderful people. it was a great experience for us all and a great way to enjoy an ice cold draft beer and sushi after.
the magical surf sessions roll on. my back is burnt, i can’t see because my eyes are sunburnt, i’m tired, my skin is dry, and there is a lot of water in my head. but hey, life rolls on! we should all enjoy each day like it is our last. see you in the water!

The new Japan Airlines First Class. Wow!
Good morning 5:30am.
South swell still here!
Shoulder to head high sets.
Diamond Head biggest.
New South swell tomorrow.
New North/West swell tomorrow.
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!e

i’ve been surfing in town my whole life. people are saying this is the best swell in 10 years. here’s what i think. there has been consistent swell for the past 30 days. this past 4 days has been incredible. for size, i think last year was bigger. as for conditions, i don’t remember the last time the conditions were this good. luckily i got to take Mayuki out and check every spot on the south shore these past few days. and everywhere i checked, it was perfect. perfect swell direction, perfect winds, perfect size, and perfect everything. so in my eyes, this past swell was the best ever for me as a surfer on the south shore. surfing my secret spot yesterday made me realize how lucky i am to be living in hawaii. and if you ask me how this summer was? the best ever too! i am completely surfed out. so tired and burnt. i’m going on a boat for 12 days to indonesia this weekend and i really don’t have any energy left to surf. good thing half of us are divers because that’s where i want to be. welcome to the endless summer again!!!

bowls is crowded and if expect to get dropped in on. sometimes a simple sorry will work, sometimes it won’t.

this wave, the bodyboarder got the best of it.

good to see Daniel Jones out in the water surfing and shooting. good kid!

i’m going out the channel slowly watching the waves. i see a set coming as 10 guys start paddling wild for it. i spot my nephew Isaiah Moniz. inside my head, i’m saying “come on Isaiah, take it!!!” maybe he heard me as i see the other 9 guys back off. Isaiah takes off, puts his hand in the wave to slow down and wait for the barrel, and does it so flawlessly.

i see him pull into the barrel, i shoot my 400mm lens into the barrel. we are 50′ away but looking eye to eye. inside my head, i’m saying “good boy!” i just love this kid!
more south swells coming this weekend. surf your dream!