Justice? or Execution?
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean in the morning.
South shore waist high and clean in the morning.
South/West winds coming later this afternoon so ugly conditions. Sunny morning but rain later this evening as storm approaches. North winds tomorrow.
Going surfing 5-6 hours today. Lucky!
Have a wonderful day!

another 5.5 hour surfing day in hawaii. super hot sun, super warm day, and super fun time. things are going by so fast that i can’t even keep up.

had an awesome time surfing with Inoue-san yesterday. a full day of surfing in what it felt like summer. super blue sky and super clean water. so stoked to see Inoue-san catch so many perfect open waves.

nice bottom turn! just keeping the board on the rail is the key to speed.

and a cutback to diamond head. thank you for the great marathon day of surfing Inoue-san!

then went surfing this morning with the coolest father and daughter. Kawano-san and Mako-chan from fukuoka got some really good waves today. such a cute relationship, and such a cute girl. we had so much fun! and the cool thing is we are going to have more fun tomorrow! can’t wait to surf with you guys again!

the best way to teach english is: hands on training. so we got to waiola shave ice and i ask Mako-chan to go and order and pay all by herself. pretty brave for a 14 year old girl but she did a great job. small cup with ice cream, rainbow flavor please. good job Mako-chan.

behind the scenes at waiola shave ice. Mako-chan waiting for her colorful shave ice.

yes, surfing and shave ice can make a kid smile. and a kid smile can make me smile. such a cute girl!

then went surfing with the Slovokian team this afternoon. great rides and great laughs. then stayed at the beach till dark, ate dinner on the way home, and i’m going to sleep. photos of yesterdays surfing coming tomorrow. i can barely keep my eyes open. good night as tomorrow will be another marathon surf day.

14 year old Mako-chan.
Good surfing today girl!