last night was a very special and amazing night. a very rare occasion when my best friends and i got together for some precious time. for the past 25 years, i would only see my friends when the waves will be junk the next day. that’s why it was so hard to plan something. if we went out and the waves were good, i was a boring guy because i was thinking about getting up early the next morning. so i’d drink a beer, and leave early. i’m surprised how my friends actually put up with my selfishness. i guess that’s why i can call these guys my best friends because they supported me the whole way.

when we were young, we’d go looking for the loudest and happening club or bar. it had to be full of people or we’d look for somewhere else. but now, we want peace. our time is so precious that we don’t need any distractions. so we sat on side of the harbor outside with the cool trade winds and silence. it was so peaceful.

then after 4 corona’s and a bottle of brandy/umeshu, there was no other place we’d rather be. sipping on our drinks, playing hawaiian music and music from the 80’s, talking, laughing, watching the stars, feeling the cool wind, rocking with the ocean, and just having the time of our lives. it was just so beautiful floating outside of waikiki in the middle of the night!

we were only 12 years old when we first all met. we’ve been through everything you can possibly think of. the good, the bad, and even the ugly. went to the same intermediate school together, went to the same high school together, and have golden memories that people can only dream of. i truly believe that people make people. these people made me into the person i am today. i owe each and every one of these precious friends my life. if it wasn’t for them, i would be on a totally different path right now. i got knocked to the ground many times before, they picked me up. i was stuck in holes before, they pulled me out. we all went our separate ways after high school, but we stuck together all these years. to Candace, Holli, Russ, and Carter, thank you for putting up with me for the past 36 years. last night was a very happy moment for me. i will never forget it. we have to do it again really soon. love you guys with all my heart. oh, and thank you Bobby for telling me we were going to drift into the reef every 5 minutes. haha. and thank you Kellen for being a great son to your wonderful mother.

Holli always with the creative gifts.

i’m pretty stoked with the wine glass made out of a recycled wine bottle.

yes, it really is. can’t wait to use it! thanks Holli!
by the way, the waves were super good today and i knew it last night. but really, i didn’t care anymore. the waves will always be there, but moments like this we have to cherish. i think i’m finally growing up. haha.

i sat on the bench yesterday morning and shot photos for 1 hour. check out the action.

when i paddled out in the morning, this kid was sitting on the beach waiting for it to get lighted so he can surf. once he could see a wave, he was on it! all by himself catching wave after wave in the inside.

3 hours later and still going strong. even looking for the barrels on the shorebreak. this kid is going to get good!

yes, lifeguards start work at 8:30am. so if you surf before that, be careful because you are on your own!

seen some little kids ripping out there.

then seen the japanese pro boys paddling out. Teppei Tajima always smiling and always ripping.

then seen Ryu Nakamura getting ready for the action.

Ryu caught a really good one right as he got out. great timing!

somebody asked me the other day “does Glenn Minami surf?” i said “omg, Glenn Minami charges! he surfs huge waves all the time!” this was Glenn’s second round of the morning.

more ripping at haleiwa.

and more broken boards too.

Angela Maki Vernon paddled out early in the morning. soon after, she broke her leash. she came back in, changed her leash, and paddled back out. next, a huge 10′ freak set came in and she barely made it over. but not her surfboard. figure her board is 9′ long. look how small it looks.

i see half of her board washing in on a wave. then the other half she rode in.

super tough girl. how tough? the waves were huge and the only other girl that had the courage to paddle out was World Champion Carissa Moore. good job Maki!

Walking on the moon.
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore EPIC! 3-5′ and best conditions! Everywhere going off! Backdoor best. South shore waist high and clean. Diamond Head best.
No wind.
Super sunny and warm.
Go and enjoy!
Have a wonderful day!