Wow!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 8-10′ + and stormy.
South shore chest high and clean. Bigger at West wrap spots. North/East winds at 20mph.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

when i was at kansai airport last night, the check in staff saw my niseko water bottle and asked me if went to hokkaido. i said yes and told her i rode the train all the way back to kansai. she couldn’t believe it, neither could i. 6 train transfers and over 15 hours. i don’t think i will ever do that again.

thank goodness there aren’t any trains going from japan to hawaii because i’d probably take one. i was actually happy to finally see an airplane.

i get uncomfortable at times flying in airplanes because you have absolutely no control of what happens. that’s why i always go to the cockpit and tell the pilots “hey guys, please get me home safely.”

i want to get home to see the blue sky. omg, it was a picture perfect warm day today. no need thermo underwear, no need jacket, no need cap, no need gloves, no need socks. just need trunks, tshirt, and slippahs. oh, and one surfboard. i couldn’t wait to get into the ocean!

i checked diamond head first. head high and perfect! but the last thing i wanted to do was hike up and down a mountain again, so i shined it.

pulled up to bowls and had an awesome session. overhead and perfect conditions. so happy to be surfing in the ocean again. going to sleep early, wake up early, and go surf early. back to my hawaiian lifestlye that i love so much. good night and see you in the water.

I’m so happy!