First Born.
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean.
South shore waist high and clean.
Everywhere clean in the morning until the South/West winds come later today. Super strong onshore in the afternoon with heavy rain.
Going surfing all day.
See you in the beautiful ocean!

i want to spend every single day in 2015 maximizing the daylight hours. so today was the start of my daily routine. watched the first sunrise from the ocean. it was so beautiful!

then came in and took care of Mayuki. she’s looking and running good as always.

then came home to eat my annual mochi soup.

along with nishime. yes, i’m japanese.

i recently turned down 3 jobs for today because i didn’t want to work on new years day. i wanted to relax and spend time with family and friends. plus, i didn’t want to get burnt in the sun because i’ll be working everyday from tomorrow. but when 2 little girls asked me to take them surfing, i got weak and gave in. and yes, i ended up getting totally sunburnt! omg.

amazing waves to start off 2015. one of my new years resolutions was to pass on my knowledge to the youth. so that’s what i’m doing. nice wave J!

then i came home and jumped on the WR250. looked around to the mountain tops, found my peak, and got up there in 3 minutes flat.

if you don’t go deep, you will never get deep. i had no idea where i was going but i just wanted to go deeper and deeper. i couldn’t have found a better place to put my mind at ease.

and ended today off with the first sunset of the year. so there it is, my daily routine for 2015. i can’t wait till tomorrow!

1st 2015 sunset time!