had another super fun 3.5 hour surfing session with Mio-san yesterday evening. i watched this girl transform from a longboarder to a shortboarder in just 2 days. surfing really solid, catching her own waves, and enjoying every ride. super stoked for her!

Thank you Mio-san for the goodie bag! i love japanese culture and love getting treats like this.

someday i will be able to read kanji. but for now, i’ll just take my chances and eat everything i get. so far, so excellent.

i was fixing surfboards yesterday morning. getting dirty, itchy, and trying to focus on doing my best.

yes, it’s back to summer weather here in hawaii. cool nights and very warm days. sunny and perfect!

i’ve been hooked on my WR250. just like to come home from a long day, jumping on it, riding up a mountain, and enjoying the view and fresh air. finding some bamboo forest with no end to the other side this day.
then i came home the other day after surfing 7 hours ready to head to the mountain for sunset time. wanted to jump on the motorcycle but something seemed wrong? there were scratches all over, and the handlebars were bent??? OMG! my nieces boyfriend used it earlier that day and crashed it into a car!!! OMG! shock!

Be careful women!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2′ in the morning building to 10′ late tonight.
Bigger 12′ swell on Friday.
South shore waist high and fun.
No wind so perfect morning conditions, onshore by 10am.
Super sunny and very warm.
Busy day for me!
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful day!