Haleiwa 8′ and abunai!
Feel so good!
Round 1 done!

My next dream destination.
Good morning 4:45am.
North shore 6-8′ and perfect.
Backdoor/Pipeline best.
South shore waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head best.
No wind so epic conditions.
Onshore wind coming around 10am.
Super sunny and warm day.
Going dawn patrol NORTH!
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time surfing with Hosokawa-san. super nice guy who loves to surf. great rides and great smile!

thank you Hosokawa-san! keep on surfing forever!

surfing has come a very long way. there’s big money to be made in contests, sponsorships, and businesses. and add the social media, you got a multi billion dollar business. the only bummer thing is it’s harder than ever to make a living for an inspiring pro surfer. there is so much talent out there but not enough sponsorship money to go around. i’m sure things will get better as mainstream surfing gets bigger. until then, never give up!

did you hear about the new condos that are popping up above ala moana shopping center? it’s called Park Lane Ala Moana and the penthouse units are going for $28M. yes, $28M is 3,316,600,000.00 JPY. yes, count the zeros. hawaii real estate is booming!

i’ve been surfing a lot recently, in fact, probably the most ever in my life. surfing is the only sport/hobby/activity/job that i could never get bored of. i surf in the morning, i surf in the evening, and i surf in my sleep. surfing is pretty much my life. the best feeling in the world. so if you’ve never tried it before, please do!