3-5′ with 8′ sets.
Good but strong current.
Morning session done!
So satisfied!

Welcome to America. Winter storm hits!
Good morning 5am.
North shore 4-8′ and epic!
Perfect conditions. Backdoor/Pipe/Haleiwa best.
South shore waist high and perfect. Diamond Head shoulder high and best. No wind becoming onshore around 10am.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

had a bunch of time on airplanes and trains so got to watch a lot of good movies.

Zero Dark Thirty is a true story on how Osamu Bin Laden was killed. chilling details and an amazing story on how the US Navy Seals pulled off that intense operation. if you’re american and felt violated by 9/11, this movie will sort of make you feel good. i guess you could say it was some kind of closure. it’s a must see movie.

and this movie is even better. American Sniper is another true story on the life as a US Navy Seal Snipper. an amazing story, feels totally real, and a very sad end. watching these 2 war movies made me appreciate and respect our US troops much more. these guys are on the front line risking their lives for our freedom. that says a lot.

have an empty wall at my house so looking through old photos to hang. came across this photo i took in the mentawai’s a few years back. this is Maoh Toda on a bomb at HT’s. one of the best boat trips of my life. uncrowded lineups, epic surf, and great times. these are the kind of waves i love to explore and surf. i can’t wait to score like this again!
epic surf for the next 5 days on the north shore. great timing i came back again! solid huge barrels coming tomorrow morning. see you out there!