i still can’t believe what a great experience it was in Abu last month. just to see deep japanese culture still alive was cool. i know many people who want to become amasan’s. and if any of them do, i will respect them just like how i respect the ocean. it’s true harmony.

Kyle and I were just tripping out on the experience. we tried to stay out of their way as the amasan of abu take their job so seriously. pure dedication japanese style.

then we ended up at the market where the 60 or so amasan’s lined up to have their daily catch weighted. something you will never get to experience and something that won’t last forever. so if you get the chance, go for it now!
still haven’t had time to go through all the photos and videos. hopefully will get to it within the year. haha.
as for the south swell, it continues as everybody is so happy. i passed by diamond head yesterday evening and there was absolutely no parking. the waves were solid 5′ and perfect. i surfed 2 times and will do again today. it’s september and our summer just won’t end. enjoy it while you can!

Amazing!!!
Good morning 5am.
High Surf Advisory for the South Shores!!!
Ala Moana 3-5′ and perfect.
Diamond Head 4-6′ and perfect!
No wind so epic morning conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 3 rounds.
Good waves good times good rides!
Have a wonderful day!

i had such a great time with the Iwata-san family for the past 3 days. it’s amazing how surfing can create a bond between people from opposite sides of the world. it’s hard to believe they were strangers to me 3 days ago, and now it feels like i’ve known them for years. we had so much fun exploring the different side of hawaii they’re not use to.

we went to bubbies to eat mochi ice cream but it was closed. so next plan was to go to Taste Tea. it just opened a few months ago and is the best taiwan tea here in hawaii. it’s so good that it reminds me of drinking it in taiwan on my first trip there.

if you see a bunch of tourists waiting in a line to order tea, i’m not too sure if it’s good or not. but if you see a bunch of locals waiting in a line to order tea, it has to be good. this place is not only good, it’s excellent!

my favorite is the honeydew milk tea with big tapioca and regular sweetness. this large size cost $4 and is worth every sip and every ball!

the system is so good there. i wish every business in hawaii could be this efficient.

it was sad to say our goodbye’s this afternoon. the nicest people in the world. we surfed, we ate, we smiled, and we laughed so much. i will miss the Iwata-san family but i know we will meet again somewhere so i’m looking forward to that. keep on surfing Papa, Mama, and Noriko-san! i’m so happy you all got to see another side of this beautiful part of hawaii!

then went back to bowls this afternoon with Team Ina. OMG! the waves were huge!!! solid 4′ and very very powerful. every wave was doubling up on each other so making the power 3x strong. even i had a hard time getting back out to the lineup. i was getting pounded like i’ve never did before. the energy for this swell is strong so please be careful when surfing because it’s still growing and growing. going to be some nice barrels tomorrow!