Thursday December25日 2025年

January 7, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


Don’t look back: Coolest Surf Photo.
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 10′ from the North.
Check Laniakea and Sunset Beach. Big and bumpy.
South shore knee/wasit high.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Much warmer than the past few days.
Surfing all day again!
See you in the water.

Wax on, Wax off, Fishing, Whale, Turtles, Fish, Pasta, Surf, Sunset.

instead of exercising at home this morning, i decided to exercise doing something productive. so at sunrise, i was down on Mayuki “wax on, wax off.” 1 hour of polishing, a great exercise, and a very beautiful shine.
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then we loaded up the fishing poles, kids, and headed out to sea.
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it was Dai-kun, Tatsuya-kun, Shuu-kun, and Lena-chan’s first time on a boat. the kids seemed nervous at first.
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then they went on the front and i put the throttle to 34 knots. that’s when the excitement started. yelling and screaming for their life! haha. these kids spotted the first whale right outside diamond head, and many many turtles too.
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then we went snorkeling and seen so many fish! more fish than hanauma bay. they were so excited.
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Dai-kun was the first one in. i could hear his excitement when he first opened his eyes and seen all the fish. then i went to join him.
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then it was lunch time because we were all hungry. i ordered the chefs special, pasta!
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and the kids ate the fish and chips. the best fish and chips on the island.
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it was such a beautiful day with the Koguma-san and Nanaumi-san families. so much fun and it was still only 1pm?
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then i went to pick up Iwasaki-san and took him for a marathon 4 hour surf session this afternoon. perfect waves, perfect rides, and perfect happiness. we caught so many good waves and Iwasaki-san was ripping!
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another day from sunrise to sunset. one of my friends asked me in the water today “how do you do it?” i told him, “i love my job, i love the ocean, i love the people, and i love my life. that’s how i do it.”
going to sleep well tonight and will do the same thing tomorrow. can’t wait! good night.

Sunrise to Sunset again?


Oh yes!
Another long beautiful day in the ocean.