amazing day. out in the ocean all day again. whale watching, turtle snorkeling, and fast cruising. took the girls out for a wild ride and it was so funny listening to them screaming the whole time. most haven’t seen whales or turtles before so must have been exciting. we jumped some waves and one of the girls almost flew off. then it was time to slow down a little. all in all, had a great time entertaining these active teenagers. watching them have so much fun reminded me of my middle school days. some of the best days of my entire life. thinking back, it was one of the turning points in my life. actually turned out to be pretty bad, but then recovered and glad i got all the bad temptations out of my system at such an early age.
less than a week and i’m off to japan. a trip i’m really looking forward too. seeing old friends, making new ones, and eating the best food in the world. i’ll only be there for a few days but my weight budget is 10lbs. so i’m eating everything that is in front of me no matter what!!!
last, kind of an up and down day as far as things going on around me. don’t want to get into it now but all i have to say is “enjoy your precious life and cherish every moment. love your friends, love your neighbors, and most importantly, love your family.”

Freaking Amazing! Keep on Dreaming!!!
Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 2-4′ and fun.
South shore 1-3′ and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and rainbows.
Surfing dawn till dusk.
Have a wonderful day!

when i woke up this morning and left for work, i knew it was going to be a beautiful day!

in the valley where i live, i see rainbows very often when i look out my window. the perfect rainbow view! that’s why i love the trade winds because i can see this all day long.

had a great time surfing with Abe-san and his son Yuta-kun. Abe-san is a surfer from Ishinomaki and has only surfed in hawaii for the past 4 years. it’s incredible how good he’s getting each year. today he caught 2 magical sets from the peak at bowls all the way to the inside of rock piles. as long as you can ever ride a wave out there! score! Yuta-kun did great too! thanks boys for the wonderful morning.

and want to thank Abe-san for the amazing present from Ishinomaki.

omg, i love everything in this box!!! going to go good with my rice and breakfast. and also good with my whisky in the evening.

so cool how japanese pack everything so perfectly. i can’t wait to open one of these up tomorrow.

i just learned that “Hoya” is also known as “Sea Pineapple.” i actually tried this before in Oshika Hanto and loved it. we don’t have this in hawaii and most parts of the world. it’s a special sea pineapple from ishinomaki.

this was one of the best photos i took yesterday. it really shows the size of Bowls. us locals would call this 5′ and pretty dam perfect. the swell went down today but it’s only march so many more of these epic days to come. yeah!

Dove Wetsuits makes 40 years this year! i can’t believe i’ve been with them since 1992 so that makes it 23 years and counting. i only use the best and that’s why i’m with the best. congratulations Dove for your 40th year anniversary! and thank you for keeping me warm for half of my lifetime!