waking up early in the morning and jumping into the ocean before sunrise is amazing. it’s just you, friends, and the ocean! i can’t wait till the next dawn patrol.
i don’t care what i’m riding anymore. as long as i’m riding a wave, i’m a happy surfer!
i went to check diamond head this morning and 2 birds came to check out the waves with me. cool love birds.
had a wonderful day 2 with the Iwata-san family. it’s their 7th time here and i’m stoked to take them to places they’ve seen for the first time. this view to me is the best view in the whole world!
we surfed in the morning and everybody surfed much much better than yesterday. tomorrow will be day 3 and i’m sure things will only get better and better. i’m very happy to meet this very wonderful energetic surfer family.
Noriko-san paddling out yesterday following a baby turtle. so cool!
thank you to the Iwata-san family for the treats from japan. itadakimasu!
Love Birds
Road Rage in Beautiful Hawaii
http://youtu.be/rNIBUh2JLBU
Welcome to my beautiful island. Haha!
Please drive safe!
Doctors Hooked on Surfing!
it’s so weird how i just remembered Noriko-san. we were exchanging emails just last year. Noriko-san’s mother is from Miyagi and they lost their house to the tsunami on 3/11. her father is 60 years old and they surfed for the first time last year. since then, they are hooked! we had a great talk today and i learned a lot about this wonderful surf family.
Papa Iwata-san is 61 years old!! OMG!!! he surfed well today and i was so stoked to see him so energetic! he’s a doctor who surfs!
Mama-Iwata-san does yoga so her inner muscle and balance was very impressive! she kept on wanting to ride wave after wave.
i was surprised to find out that Noriko-san is a doctor too! omg, a surgeon! probably the youngest doctor i’ve ever met before. i’m stoked she found surfing and i’m stoked that it has changed her life in a good way. keep on smiling girl!
on the way out, a baby turtle swam right under us. it was as natural as can be. sharing the ocean and waves together. i can’t wait to see what we will see today! i love the wild nature!
