i went on a luxury charter a few years ago to indonesia. most of the nights we had full on gourmet dinners but one night, they cooked for us a local style indonesian dinner. there were 3 live chickens in a basket on the boat the whole time. when that night came, i went in the back to watch them prepare the meal. they take a knife and slit the throat. i see this all the time so i’m getting use to it. but the first time i seen locals kill live chickens in bali, i felt like throwing up. now i understand that this is just part of a culture.

squeeze the blood out, pour hot water over to take the feathers out, then cut it up into pieces.

1 hour later, it’s the freshest chicken ever! much better than kentucky fried chicken.

i had such a great time with Kairi and Reika on my boat. diving was fun, talking was fun, and laughing was fun. i have a container i keep my phone and keys in so it doesn’t get wet. everybody throws their phone and stuff in there too. i wanted to take a photo so i grabbed my iphone and….

OMG! what is this screensaver? it was weird picking up my phone and seeing a girl in a bikini on it? come to find out, it was Reika’s iphone. we happen to have the same case and same color phone. it was such a funny moment. 19 year old Reika is surely growing up and as you can see, she’s not a little kid anymore.

Wipeout!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore still big at 8-10′ and bumpy. Cleaner this afternoon.
South shore waist high and clean.
North/East winds at 15-25mph.
Super sunny day!
Going surfing all day long.
Have a nice day and see you in the water!

it’s been such a fun 2 full days surfing with the Kaneko-san family. two brothers and their kids just enjoying the surfing life in hawaii. yesterday was for the adults as Kaneko-san and Masaru-san paddled out to big Haleiwa. i saw Kaneko-san catch 3 huge waves! solid double overhead and ripping! i was so stoked for him and i’m sure he will remember that session forever.

14 year old Rei-kun has so much energy. it’s the 3rd season surfing with him and now to see him surfing north shore haleiwa was awesome.

today we stayed in town because today was for the kids. 13 year old shy boy Hiyo-kun must have caught 30 waves today. our first session at bowls, and our second session at diamond head. he even caught a wave from outside diamond head cliffs all the way to the beach. he’d paddle back out each time with the biggest smile on his face. such a cute kid.

it was 11 year old Manami-chan’s second surf session. she did soooo good! i was so happy to see her big smile!

a family surfing together is a great thing. it creates a great memory that will never be forgotten.

and riding a wave next your cousin is fun. these 2 boys are getting bigger and bigger each year. and getting better and better too.

Kaneko-san and son Rei-kun. Kaneko-san is hooked on surfing and goes every weekend. i was so stoked to see him surf so good yesterday at haleiwa. when he came in, he was so happy. i know that feeling and only a surfer will understand how it feels.

father and son surfing side by side is a priceless moment. awesome!

i had fun trying to make shy boy Hiyo-kun laugh. i tried joking with him all day long. he must think i’m crazy. haha. and Rei-kun was laughing at me trying to make Hiyo-kun laugh. they both probably think i’m crazy. haha.

over 5 hours in the water today. a teddy’s burger and waiola shave ice to go along with it. i really like the Kaneko-san family as surfing brings us closer together year by year. i’m a pretty happy guy now in my life and it’s all because of experiences like this. surfing, friends, and hawaii! good night.