was super busy today doing lots of things. come 5:15pm, i seen the sun start to set and i heard the waves at bowls was overhead and perfect. drove down, paddled out at sunset, surfed with the pink skies, and came in a refreshed and very happy man. it’s amazing what the ocean can do to you. i just can’t live without it.
north shore dropping tomorrow into the 4-6′ range and perfect. bigger swell then this past one coming christmas day. maybe i’ll paddle out to waimea bay and shoot a youtube vid?

i was watching pipe today but it was nothing like yesterday. yesterday was huge, dangerous, and probably the best biggest day of the year so far. in fact, it was the biggest pipe i’ve ever paddled out to in my life. there must have been 60 surfers out at once and the crowd was more dangerous than the wave. everybody looking for the ultimate ride.

kumu’s are like gold. and when you know how to cook them like Maki-san, they’re even more gold. unbelievable preparation by Iron Chef Maki-san!

Hisako-san usually bodyboards so she knows a lot about waves and the ocean. so surfing for her was no problem. a very strong paddler and a very good surfer.

right foot front is “goofy foot” stance. Diamond Head back is paradise! welcome to “goofy paradise!”

for years and years, i use to crave for good sushi in japan. now, i don’t have to go to japan anymore to eat the best sushi. i just have to drive 10 minutes from my house and as soon as i walk into the new japanese sushi restaurant, i feel like i’m in japan, and the sushi is just as good as japan. the salmon they serve here is amazing. it’s like a one in a million with the best quality in the world. and also the most expensive piece of salmon you will ever eat.
anyway, gotta go to a party with some long time friends. have a wonderful evening!

i took some photos the last time i was in okinawa. this is Miwa-san who translates all my blogs into japanese. how did we meet? from right here at go-naminori! another example on how this site connects people from all walks of life.

Miwa-san a super cool girl who likes to have fun. just to see a huge smile like this while enjoying the ocean is awesome. thank you Miwa-san for all the hard work in translating my blogs. see you soon in hawaii!
i get emails almost everyday of people asking me to post more youtube vids. i see people on the streets, in the water, and all over the place saying “hey, you the youtube guy!” i even met a couple in the philippines that recognized me from youtube. haha. i think that’s pretty funny. i’ve been super busy and have no time to do vids like before. from shooting the footage, to downloading it to my computer, to editing it, to posting it. it takes a total of 7 hours just to do one video. i have 11,305,589 views and 5,182 subscribers now. i should be a youtube millionaire, but i’m not. haha. i paddle out to pipeline yesterday, some of the top cinematography guys in the world out there with their thousands of dollars worth of equipment, guys on jet skies, guys everywhere. a couple of the guys look at me and say “hey, you should upgrade your camera dude.” they think i’m a joke but it’s ok. i told one of the guys “i’m just doing this for fun. i shoot some vid, stick the camera in my pocket, catch some waves, get barreled, go home, and millions of people around the world watch my vids before you can even download your footage to your computer.” i was being a wise ass but that was truth.
my last pipe vid got over 5.5M views. i’m not sure how many this one will get. hopefully more.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2OR-A5l-JI[/youtube]

Yesterday in the Pipeline Pit!
The sound, the feel, the energy, the adrenaline.
I love it!
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore: Still giant! 8-12′ and good Pipeline! Yesterday better but still good today.
South shore: Look for West wrap around spots at 4′ and going off! Nice waves everywhere. Winds are light trade winds at 5-15mph.
Cloudy, sunny, rainy, and rainbows.
Quick surf, clean house, and get ready for my little Japanese guest tomorrow. Have a wonderful day!