was out surfing bowls the other day and seen something floating in the lineup. rubbish to some, scuba dive buoy to others, and lost and found to the person who lost it. i ended up carrying it and even surfing with it that morning. and i know exactly where it came from. it came from the scuba divers at magic island.

sunshine scuba. i think it’s on cooke street? i was going to take it back later that day but the traffic was too crazy. i’ll take it back there when i can find some time off. i don’t need it and i’m sure they would love to get it back.

marinated ahi sashimi over shiso and sushi rice. my lunch for yesterday.

the waves finally calmed down. still some head high sets this morning at rockpiles. but instead of 100 waves per hour, there were only 80 waves per hour. lots of paddling and lots of duck diving. been surfing these crazy conditions this past week and it felt like i paddled to molokai 5 times.

with the rough conditions we’ve been having, most people don’t even bother going out. so many rescues and lots of warnings by lifeguards. Team Slovakia Jan and Martina must have lost 10 lbs. each from all the paddling these past 6 sessions. but at the same time, their bodies are beginning to look like sculptured surfers. today was another challenging day, but it was almost too easy for them because their muscles are memorizing what they need to do. they flew from around the world to surf in hawaiian paradise, and i’m sure i’ll see them back soon because they got the surfing virus! from now, they will sleep, eat, and dream surfing. great job guys! IGE, IGE, IGE!!!
OMG, it’s 8:45pm! i better go to sleep already because tomorrow is another surfing all day routine. silent night, holy night, good night.

A gift of music for our elderly.
From Maunalani Nursing and Rehab Center.

Mako-chan is the cutest little girl. at only age 14, she is very smart and has a very magical smile. she surfed perfectly and i was so happy to see her enjoying herself.

surfing on the same wave with her father Kawano-san. to me, photos like this are the most precious. father and daughter bonding here in hawaii.

Mako-chan never snorkeled before so i took her in the shore break. after 1 minute, she got bored so i put her on the longboard and paddled out to sea.

i couldn’t see her facial expressions, but i could hear her exciting voice through her snorkel. i could tell she was amazed by the new wonderful world she seen.

i towed her around the ocean for about 40 minutes and she never came up. she just kept on looking at all the fish.

and when she did come up when we were finished, i could see her beautiful smile. great job surfing and snorkeling Mako-chan! hope to see you again! let’s go eat a hamburger. haha.

and a wonderful treat from fukuoka. hakata torimon. thank you Kawano-san!