ok, i’m a very busy and active person. most times, nobody can keep up with me. in fact, i don’t know anybody that can keep up with the things i do. everyday is an adventure, everyday is fun, and everyday i want to do a thousand things.
yesterday, Hiyori-chan woke up feeling sick. too sick to go to school so she stayed home. no fever, no coughing, or no cold symptoms. she even went to the doctor and they couldn’t find anything wrong. she was in bed all day long and when i got home from work in the evening, i went to check on her and she looked very tired. i felt sorry for her and felt helpless as i couldn’t anything to cheer her up. i wanted to start telling her my jokes to make her laugh but she didn’t look like she was in the mood for that. so i just let her sleep.
then this morning, Hiyori-chan woke up perfectly fine. feeling fresh and ok. i went to work thinking “wow, i must have overworked her?” ever since she got off the airplane, we’ve just been doing all kinds of active things. my own sister told me the other day what kind of drugs i was taking because i keep moving and moving. my life is so busy and fun that i just can’t slow down. i don’t want to waste a single minute of each day and that’s why i’m enjoying each and every moment. i don’t need drugs, i don’t need coffee, i just need my kombucha, my 10 minute morning exercise, and my raw egg and i’m ready for anything!

this is the genki Hiyori-chan before she overheated. i’ll let her cool down for 2 more days and it’s back to surfing, diving, fishing, and moving around and around. haha. it’s so funny that even active kids can’t keep up with me.

today was another all day surf day. the Kaneko-san family straight from off the airplane, got a taxi to waikiki, and jumped into the truck and we went to the north shore. so excited to surf the big upcoming swell!

after our first session at haleiwa, it was time for lunch. and if you ever go to the north shore, you have to try Ray’s hulihuli chicken! the best on this island.

then back to haleiwa as the waves doubled in size from the morning. some 8′ sets and only a few guys out. score!

Kaneko-san and his son Rei-kun. you guys did great today! good surfing and big waves! get some good sleep and see you again tomorrow morning 8:30am sharp!

Surf Haleiwa all day!
Morning 3-4′.
Afternoon 6-8′.
Wow!

yesterday was another hot amazing summer day! the hot weather with cool north/east winds made it perfect for both in and out of the water. diamond head was as beautiful as it gets.

Senchan is such a cool kid. a 20 year old college student in tokyo with many dreams! just talking to him was pretty cool because he reminded me of myself when i was that age. just waking up everyday and having fun! this kid surfed super good too. he only surfed 2x before but after a few waves, he was surfing like he’s been doing it for years! good job Senchan! study hard, strive for your dreams, and keep on surfing!

after surfing a long morning session, we were both hungry. decided to eat a big plate of mexican enchiladas with horchata. i was so full after eating all this!

had to let the stomach settle before our 2nd session so we took a spin up to tantalas. yes, it was beautiful as usual. and looking at green diamond head is kind of weird. i’ve never seen it this green before. i didn’t even know there were trees on that mountain.

look what opened up in kapahulu! the new Popeyes fried chicken restaurant! i’ve never tried it before but i heard that it’s the best fried chicken and mashed potatoes in the world. i’ll try it soon and by the look of the full parking lot, it must be pretty dam good!
2 more huge north/west swells on the way. lucky we live in hawaii!