Backside bottom turn at Bowls yesterday! So good wave, and so happy! Enjoy the ride.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head head high and side wind.
East shores 2-4′ becoming 8-10′ tomorrow.
Winds light trades at 15mph now becoming 60mph tomorrow.
Weather is super sunny now becoming super rainy tomorrow.
Enjoy the beautiful day before Hurricane Iselle comes.
I’m going surfing.
Have a wonderful and safe day!

for the past 5 years, i’ve been taking the Matsuda-san family surfing here in hawaii. such a super kind and very nice surf family. we had such a great time today as usual.

Kaito-kun was only 6 years old when we first surfed. that was about the same age i caught my first wave that i will never forget. up until last year, we’ve been riding together. today, he was on his own. a super cute kid so excited to get on the board. smiling all the way out and all the way in. gosh, i wish i can keep this kid. he’s so cute!!!

first wave, he just jumped up, rode the wave, and felt the stoke. you should have seen his facial expression. just so excited!

then Kaito-kun wanted more and more. only 11 years old and surfing in hawaii for almost half his life.

after we caught this wave, we paddled back out together. then he told me as he looked at diamond head, “diamond head is so green! it’s so beautiful.” a young boy absorbing nature is precious.

and after every wave, Kaito-kun kept on telling me “arigato gozaimasu.” so kind, so respectful, and so well mannered. just like his parents.

Matsuda-san did a great job too. he surfed 2 rounds and was stoked! the waves were perfect and it was such a beautiful day.

a natural smile and natural moment that will last a lifetime.

then Sachiko-san surfing so good too! i was so happy to see everybody surfing better and better each year. such a cool mother to such a cute kid.

then we went to Cafe Kaila and had a great brunch. five years i’ve known this wonderful family and i’m really happy to be part of their wonderful hawaiian surfing life.

french toast with strawberries and blueberries. this was excellent.

bacon lettuce tomato sandwich. super good.

the eggs benedict was Kaito-kun’s favorite. mine too.

and of course, the pancakes with apple and strawberries.
i surfed in the morning, ate a great lunch, surfed in the afternoon, ate a great dinner. not i’m home at 9:30pm and i’m ready for a great sleep. tomorrow i’m going to try to surf this hurricane.
to the people in hawaii, please stay calm and stop buying all the water in every single store. omg, relax!!!

up until now, i remember 2 big hurricanes in my life growing up here in hawaii. one was Hurricane Iwa, and the other was Hurricane Iniki. both devastated parts of hawaii. and both brought good waves as i surfed both. i remember my mom calling me stupid for surfing Hurricane Iwa when i was just out of high school. but little does she know, i’ve been chasing hurricanes/typhoons ever since. but the older i get, the more i think how stupid i really was. and stupid me will probably surf these 2 hurricanes heading for hawaii. i kind of know where will be good on the big day.

this is big news as everybody here is panicking. i heard last night on the news that some places are SOLD OUT of water already. really? today, i’m sure you won’t find a drop of bottled water on the island, batteries too, and gas stations will have long lines. it’s part of the panic culture we have here as these events are huge. thursday night and friday will be the heaviest for oahu. wind, rain, and brown water. i just can’t wait till this is all over with.

and right behind is another hurricane that will take the exact same path. that one forecasted to hit on monday.
the only thing i’m worried about right now is Mayuki. i wish i can bring her home and put her in my garage. but she’s too big! maybe i’ll just sleep down there on thursday night. anyway, be safe and stay indoors! i’m sure all schools and a lot of businesses will be closed on friday. get out the candles and spend some quality time with each other. somethings are just meant to be. mother nature sets the rules.