had another great surf session with Tae-san yesterday. just getting better and better wave by wave. super stoked to see everybody progressing! keep on surfing and keep on hawaii Tae-san!

super stoked to see all people from all walks of life getting into surfing. Helen Hunt is one of my favorite actresses. remember Silence of the Lambs? awesome actress, awesome style, and awesome surfing. stoked to see this photo in the news of her surfing. the more, the better!

yes, Helen Hunt a star actress!

talk about actresses. when i was going to college, i was hooked on soap operas. The Bold and the Beautiful was one of them. back then, i use to think this actress Brooke was the hottest girl in the world. 25 years later, things change i guess. i couldn’t even recognize her.

gone with the wind. i spent $75 on a buoy 4 months ago, tied it to the pier, yesterday it was gone! either somebody stole it, somebody borrowed it, or the ocean took it. anyway, i had to get another one so it is like $75 gone with the wind.

check this new restaurant that opened up in china. imagine eating in the sky?

how could this be fun? i’m so scared of heights!!!

Ichinomiya Cup 2 @ Chiba!
August 9, 2015.
Good morning 6am.
Typhoon in Hawaii!!!
Heavy rain, strong wind, flood warnings.
OMG, last night was lightning, thunder, rain, and wind.
Morning clearing up but afternoon heavy rain again.
Waves waist high and off shore at Ala Moana.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy.
Going airport, surfing, airport.
Have a wonderful day!

duck diving is like an art. for shortboarders, it’s something cool to do. just going under a wave with your board flowing with the ocean. it’s fun, feels good, and prevents you from getting pounded by waves.

here is Kamijima-san doing the perfect duck dive yesterday. see how perfect he’s ducking under the wave. that’s where you want to be.

as for long boarding, it’s different. it’s impossible to push such a big board underwater so the best thing to do when a big wave comes is to throw your board on the side and dive under. it’s safe, easy, and feels so good! Inaida-san has it to perfection and even a 5′ wave isn’t too big for him anymore.

Yuki-san too does it perfect. it takes a while to figure out the timing and gain the confidence to do it but once you do, it makes surfing so much easier.
WARNING: if you ever see me and my longboard friends in the water, DO NOT paddle behind any one of us because i train everybody to throw the board when a big wave comes. and if you are behind, you will get HIT!!! figure out that a surfboard is 9′, add the 9′ leash span, and you have 18′. so stay way behind. i’ve seen many people get hurt and if you are behind, you are at fault. simple.