rained all day long. i loved this relaxing day to work on getting my house back into shape. blood, sweat, and tears. started at 6:30am and still going now at 7:30pm nonstop. rain should be stopping and sun coming out tomorrow. bye bye hurricane ana!
i use to compete for about 10 years of my life. like everybody else, i use to hate to lose. sometimes it’s easy, and sometimes it’s hard. i usually shook it off pretty quick. throughout the years, i seen other competitors get into fights, throw things at the judges, swear, punch themselves, and even break their own surfboard.

i woke up at 5am and watched the contest live from portugal. kelly slater is a fierce competitor. the greatest in the sport of surfing. he had 3 chances in the past 3 contests to take the world title ranking lead, but blew it. today kelly took his loss pretty bad.

after his heat, he went to the competitors area and demolished his own surfboard. he broke it into 3 pieces. omg!

yes, 3 pieces. it takes a lot of power or a lot of frustration to break a board into 3 pieces. then he ran back to the beach, and gave the pieces away.

yes, his fans were still happy, but i bet his sponsors and shaper weren’t. poor sportsmanship? you decide. kelly hates to lose and i’m wondering what this 11 time world champion will do next? and to all you kids that want to become a pro surfer, learn how to win. and learn how to lose. please don’t break your surfboard. instead, give it to a kid that really needs one.

one of the reasons why i quit surfing contests was because of the stress. i chose the lifestyle to be a traveling surfer. just go around the world looking for great waves. the most stress free job in the world. and to experience simple lifestyles like this makes me appreciate everything i have.

indo style kitchen. so simple.

this kind woman invited me into her house and made me a special drink. i took a sip and almost threw up. haha. but i tried it anyway.
portugal contest finals tomorrow. the world champion will be determined at the Pipeline Pro in december. see you there!

been having some work done on my house for the past 2 months. my grandpa built my house 60 years ago so some things have to be changed. some things leading to other things. just seems never ending. and now days, it’s so expensive for materials and labor. back in the days, i would do everything by myself. but now i’m just too busy so i have people working on things. i had to get a water line installed from my pipe to my refrigerator and the plumber wanted to charge me $250. what??? no way! so i went to the hardware store, bought the parts for $20, and did it myself. it took 30 minutes and i saved a lot of precious money!

i’d have to say that flying to molokai in a helicopter was one of the highlights of my life. a great memory with great friends. a trip i will never forget.

just a total different view of hawaii. but now that Toda-san has his drone, i don’t think i’ll be needing a helicopter ride anymore. haha.

a waterfall from the heavens to the oceans. i felt like jumping off the mountain!

2 years ago, i use to eat and drink anything and everything. all kinds of unhealthy food, sodas, beers, and anything i wanted to. i kind of freaked out when i looked at this photo. but now, i’m eating a lot more healthier and i feel more energetic, more healthy, and more happy. and i lost 10lbs. or 4 kilos ever since then. i think i’m at a good weight now and i’ll be fine as long as i don’t eat the late night ramen before bedtime. haha.

last winter when Kimura-san came to hawaii, we went shopping. i bought these cool surf trunks and he wanted it too. at that time, i told him “NO!” he didn’t buy it and that was that. then on my birthday night on the boat in indonesia, he came out of his room with the same trunks. and so did Matsu. i thought something was weird??? after i told him not to buy it, he went back by himself and bought the trunks. haha. i thought that was pretty funny!