most surfers that come to surf in hawaii want to get better. wait, i take that back. every surfer in the world wants to get better, including world champions like kelly slater. surfing is addicting and when you surf better, you feel better. so when people ask me for their advice, i give it to them. and even when people don’t ask me for their advise, i give it to them. it’s just my job as a surfer to push everybody past their limits.

i’m going to use Kanda-san as an example. Kanda-san asked me “i want to get better in surfing!” great! i ask him to show me how he surfs on land before we paddle out. i see him leaning forward and putting too much weight on his front foot. i tell him to settle back more, put about 60% pressure on your back foot, and 40% on your front. he gets it right on the beach. then i tell him “once you jump in the ocean, you will forget everything i just taught you.” sure enough like 100% of the surfers i teach, they forget. i see Kanda-san leaning the front of the board too much so i start yelling “BACK FOOT, BACK FOOT, 60/40!!!”

next wave, much better! better, but still a little too much weight on the front foot. so i start yelling again “60/40, 60/40!!!”

next wave, PERFECTION!!! this is a perfect example of 60/40. this is the correct way to ride a surfboard. if you ride it like this all the time, the surfboard will go faster, and you will have a much easier time turning and controlling it. pretty simple to explain, but pretty hard to fix if nobody is yelling at you on every wave you ride. haha.

good surfing equals good smile. great job Kanda-san! please don’t forget what you learned in hawaii. ganbatte ne!

Beautiful Autumn in Japan. OMG, I want to go there now!!!
Good morning 5am.
North shore chest high from the North.
South swell continues. Shoulder high with some head high sets. Clean! Trade winds at 10mph so great conditions.
Super sunny and hot day.
Going early morning surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

it was another awesome day to be in the ocean. went for a morning surf to my favorite secret spot. once again, good waves, good vibe, and many sharks.

the water was extra dirty today from yesterdays rain storm. brown mountain water attracting a lot of sharks. be careful!

i always believe that a good bed is key to a good life. if you are active like me from morning till night, you better get good sleep. today i went shopping for a good bed that will make my dreams become more like reality. my advise is: never cut corners. get a good bed no matter how much it costs because in the long run, it only amounts to pennies each day of good sleep. the best investment a man can make.

one of the best south/east asian countries i visited: it has to be the philippines. the people are so nice. and the kids are so cute. i took this photo at a local pier that connects 2 villages to each other. what an awesome experience.

the best concert i’ve ever been too by far is Neil Diamond in Hawaii. if i missed this concert, i would have regretted it for the rest of my life. i tell people never to regret anything in life, and that’s why i went to both shows. it was a lifetime experience for me and probably the last time Neil Diamond will ever have a concert again. and if you have any info of him having a future concert, please let me know because i would fly around the world to see him sing again.