i’m always very lucky to surf with honeymooners. these 2 never surfed together, but now they do. a great start to a great marriage. thank you Saito-san and Shuko-san for the wonderful 2 days!

like i always say, the ocean can bring out the biggest smiles in anyone.

before we went surfing, i told Shuko-san; guarantee you will stand up. she didn’t believe me until her first wave. after this, it was too easy for her.

Saito-san just want to get better and better. we were working on a few basic things and wave after wave, he was surfing better and better. so stoked to see him ripping!

i’m sure Saito-san will practice more in japan and come to hawaii next year surfing better than ever.

yeah! keep on surfing!

Real Hostage Situation. This is not a movie. OMG!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 3-5′ and cleaning up. Off shore.
South shore weak wait/chest high at Ala Moana. Cleaner than yesterday. Head high at Diamond Head but very windy.
Strong East winds at 25mph.
Rain, clouds, but should be sunny later today.
Clean house and go surf.
Have a wonderful day.
ASP Portugal FINALS starts NOW! Jordy Smith vs. Mick Fanning. http://www.aspworldtour.com/

rained all day long. i loved this relaxing day to work on getting my house back into shape. blood, sweat, and tears. started at 6:30am and still going now at 7:30pm nonstop. rain should be stopping and sun coming out tomorrow. bye bye hurricane ana!
i use to compete for about 10 years of my life. like everybody else, i use to hate to lose. sometimes it’s easy, and sometimes it’s hard. i usually shook it off pretty quick. throughout the years, i seen other competitors get into fights, throw things at the judges, swear, punch themselves, and even break their own surfboard.

i woke up at 5am and watched the contest live from portugal. kelly slater is a fierce competitor. the greatest in the sport of surfing. he had 3 chances in the past 3 contests to take the world title ranking lead, but blew it. today kelly took his loss pretty bad.

after his heat, he went to the competitors area and demolished his own surfboard. he broke it into 3 pieces. omg!

yes, 3 pieces. it takes a lot of power or a lot of frustration to break a board into 3 pieces. then he ran back to the beach, and gave the pieces away.

yes, his fans were still happy, but i bet his sponsors and shaper weren’t. poor sportsmanship? you decide. kelly hates to lose and i’m wondering what this 11 time world champion will do next? and to all you kids that want to become a pro surfer, learn how to win. and learn how to lose. please don’t break your surfboard. instead, give it to a kid that really needs one.

one of the reasons why i quit surfing contests was because of the stress. i chose the lifestyle to be a traveling surfer. just go around the world looking for great waves. the most stress free job in the world. and to experience simple lifestyles like this makes me appreciate everything i have.

indo style kitchen. so simple.

this kind woman invited me into her house and made me a special drink. i took a sip and almost threw up. haha. but i tried it anyway.
portugal contest finals tomorrow. the world champion will be determined at the Pipeline Pro in december. see you there!