ok, yet another hurricane heading straight for oahu. this one is going to hit us full on! the government already cancelled schools, events, and are preparing for some high winds and heavy rain. most people will be indoors, some surfers will be outdoors. no matter which way the winds are blowing, somewhere is straight off shore. as of now, nobody knows where will be good. but come saturday morning when i wake up, i’ll know where to go. my guess for now is 10′ north shore with super strong off shore winds. that means, big barrels!

we get a hurricane every 23 years or so. this rare year, it’s the 2nd one. can you believe japan gets twenty something typhoons a year? yes, each year japan gets pounded and pounded by typhoons. it’s just a part of daily life in japan. but for us, it’s panic city!

surfing with Abe-san is always fun. just a super stoked surfer in great shape. check out this beautiful wave at bowls rights! it feels good just looking at this photo imagining how it feels taking the drop and riding towards diamond head.

yes, riding towards diamond head. only in hawaii.

thank you Abe-san for the great surfing and great conversations. keep on surfing!

when i first started going on boat trips back in the early 1990’s, i was the only diver. so it would be my responsibility to catch our crew some fresh fish. while the boys would be surfing in the evenings, i’d be sent out on the dingy with orders of sashimi. yes, i missed some amazing sunset surf sessions. but now, things have changed. i go on boat trips with awesome divers. so while they are out catching the nights sashimi, i’m surfing into the sunset. haha. now i know how it feels to surf awesome waves, come back to the boat, open up a bintang beer, sit down on the dinner table, and get served fresh sashimi from fish that have been swimming in the ocean a few hours earlier. i loved it! thanks Kekoa, Travis, Kyle, Cathy, and Al for the sashimi, poke, and all the preparations.

and thank you Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, and Matsu for capturing so many moments on video and stills. i really got to enjoy this trip and realize how photos like this can make people happy. i’m super happy and i’m sure our whole crew are too. nice jump Tiare. Teremakasih!

Enjoy the Free Ride.
Good morning 5:50am.
North shore 2-3′ from the North direction.
South shore chest high and windy.
Morning sickness conditions getting better this afternoon.
Wind trade winds at 20-25mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Surfing morning and afternoon.
Have a wonderful day!

i had a rare day off today. i told myself last night, “hey, stay home, relax, and stay out of the hot sun before you get so dark that nobody can see you.” i check the waves and it was too good to let it pass by. i drive to the beach, surf for 2 hours, caught some amazing waves, and had a great time with my local friends. i can’t stay out of the water. i love this endless summer!

local surfer/friend Reid getting a good barrel!

yesterday was awesome. check out Saito-san on a pretty good size wave. usually the waves are small in october on the south shore, but this year is different.

with every surfer that comes to hawaii, i do my best to guide them on a path on improvement. it starts on the beach, then continues after every wave ridden. i saw Saito-san get better and better and better. nice bottom turn dude.

see you again tomorrow Saito-san! the waves will be good again you lucky guy!

if you surf better and better, your life will get better and better. only a surfer knows that feeling.

Watanabe-san hasn’t surfed for a while. the waves were pretty big yesterday in the evening and he just charged! super excited and super stoked. great balance, and great style.

see you again tomorrow Watanabe-san. we go big again!

check out the weather forecast. i went to costco today and i couldn’t believe how many people were buying all the water again. it was crazy panic! here is my advice: fill up containers with water from your faucet. it’s perfectly drinkable. and if you do buy water, please don’t go back and return it if you don’t need it. it’s not good for businesses. and most of all, please don’t panic. panic is not good for our island lifestyle. stay calm.