OMG, Big Pipeline? NO! This is Big Japan!
Thank you Miwa-san for the typhoon photo.
Please be safe!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 4-6′ with 8′ sets..
Pipeline/Backdoor barreling. Little morning sickness but getting better later. South swell again!!! OMG, summer continues.
Ala Moana 2-3′ and GOOD!!!
Strong off shore trade winds at 25mph.
Super sunny sky. Warm with cool trade winds.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

i had a great time today with Kaori-chan and the Sky-A TV crew. we filmed all day long surfing, eating, hanging out, diving, and sunset. they wanted to know the kind of lifestyle i live and that was pretty much it. just keeping busy like normal maximizing every single day and every single moment. thank you for the wonderful day Kaori-chan, Maeda-san, Kawakita-san, and Kuritani-san! good waves, good food, good desert, good talk, good sunset, and good fun!

they were looking for places you won’t find in guidebooks. i knew just where to take them! check out the oxtail stew plate for $8.95. so good!

then we went for a short dive at sunset time. i’ve known Kaori-chan since she was 15 years old. i watched her surfing grow, watched her win 3 JPSA Grand Championships, and watched her live a very successful and wonderful life. such a sweet girl that i will always respect.

every friday evenings have a sailboat race. a perfect time to anchor the boat, sit back, and enjoy the perfect sunset. it was so beautiful out there today!!!!

check out these photos i found of japanese amasan’s 60 years ago. the women of the sea? the beauty if the sea? freaking amazing culture and lifestyle. i wish i could go back 60 years and relive these moments.

i had no idea amasan’s use to dive half nude. i think that’s pretty cool, and pretty beautiful. who was the idiot that invented clothes anyway? haha.

With Kaori Mayaguchi.