i surfed big rights yesterday evening with shaper Glenn Minami. we talked about surfboards and today i went by his shaping room to talk more about surfboards.
i showed him the magic board he shaped for me and we were looking at every single curve of foam. i’ve rode over a thousand surfboards and every single one worked different. just a 1/32 of an inch or 0.07 cm can make a board work much differently. it’s like a science and all we do is try to make the next one even better. if you want a magic board, you have to know what you’re looking for and have to work closely with your shaper. it’s very important! Glenn Minami has been shaping for top professional surfers in the world for the past 40 years. i’m so happy to have such an experienced hawaiian shaper handcrafting my boards. magic hands equals magic boards!
ate a really good beef broccoli with rice plate today before my 3.5 hour barrel surf session. i went out to big rights looking only for the barrel and got barreled 8 times! a very happy surf session for me!
then after so sunburnt and tired, the anchor got stuck 40 feet deep. OMG! i had to control the boat, dive down to untangle the anchor off the reef, come back up, and pull it up all within a minute. i was even more tired after that.
i drove by bowls and it was still pumping! wave after wave and barrel after barrel. pretty crowded too so i made a good choice going to big rights because it was super uncrowded again today.
not sure who this was but nice grab rail barrel.
still going!
but never made it out.
so the waves came down a little from yesterday but it was still very consistent. tomorrow will drop even more but expect some freak 4′ sets every once in a while. had another long day and ready for bed. good night and surf your dream!
Surfer X Shaper Relationship
Good and great!
Good weather and great waves!!!
Surf 3.5 hour session!!!
Naked Pro Surfer
was so happy to hear the turnout for the Yokohama Event went well. many many of people showed up to see the Go-Naminori Girls and they even had a talk show. an awesome event sponsored by H.I.S and wanted to thank everybody involved. just another rainbow event connecting japan to hawaii. i love it!
happy to hear that Mr. and Mrs. Naganuma-san came by to say hi. i hope to someday surf with them again here in hawaii!
and Mr. Watanabe-san is coming to hawaii next month and i’m looking forward to surfing some good waves with him.
speaking of good waves, my eyes are on the typhoon charts now in the pacific ocean. next week i hope to be surfing somewhere around here. if so, good. if not, good too. my top priority is to eat good food in japan! haha.
Women’s Top Pro Surfer Coco Ho naked? wow! Coco Ho just posed for a magazine surfing naked. cool! express yourself! i like when people are confident with themselves. i think it will start a new naked surf trend and i don’t think anybody will be complaining. haha. but if you are a male, please keep your clothes on. if you don’t, i will call the police. haha.
i have a funny feeling that in 10 years from now, there will be a lot of naked surfers in this world. i feel like surfing naked too!
