the last time i was in Wakayama, i couldn’t believe how expensive gas was! 1 gallon is 3.78 liters so that comes out to 657 yen per gallon or $6.50/gallon? omg!

i filled up my tank yesterday and it was $4.24/gallon. that’s only 112 yen per liter. huge difference!

pretty cool seeing this guy fishing out in the ocean all the time. this is called “hard core fishing” in hawaii. if his motor breaks, it’s so easy because he can just paddle in and even catch a wave. haha.

19 days straight of perfect waves. that’s what everybody’s been talking about in the water. i was gone for 7 of those days so it’s 12 days for me. and with another huge south swell coming tomorrow, this might be the longest days of south shore consistency ever. enjoy the rides!

5 years ago, it was a dream of mine to be able to do a headstand. after never saying never, i finally can do it!!! now my next dream is to do a headstand in the barrel! then i will probably die. haha.
never give up on yourself. if you think you can do it and imagine you can do it, then you can do it! follow your dreams!

Surf first.
Wash Mayuki second.
Surf again third.
Another perfect day!!!

I want to try this!
Good morning 6:10am.
Ala Moana waist/chest high and very good conditions.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Cool light trade winds coming back. Thank you!
Super sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!