check out Ana’s track. yeah, going to hit hawaii this weekend, bringing waves, rain, wind, and panic. try to find water now? i bet it’s all sold out again. calm down hawaii, let’s not all panic.

first snow on the island of “Hawaii” or better known as “The Big Island.” winter is here. beautiful!

surfed this morning with Saito-san. he’s been surfing for 2 years and is driven to get better and better. today, i think his surfing went up 2 levels. i could tell by the smile on his face paddling out after each wave. i want to thank Miyauchi-san in tokyo for introducing Saito-san to me. i hope to meet and surf with you someday too! keep on surfing boys!

lunch with the honeymooners. i’m always happy so spend such happy times with happy people. egyptian curry and strawberry smoothies at “Da Spot.”

then i went back this afternoon for a surf with Watanabe-san. the waves got even bigger than the morning. perfect off shore winds and super long rides. i was sitting on my board in 6′ deep water and seen something on the bottom. i dove down and picked up a super expensive single fin that is worth $70. score!

Watanabe-san is from Ishinomaki and is very very energetic. we had a super fun surf with long rides and lots of laughs. he just flew in to hawaii at lunch time so he’s pretty much straight off the airplane. see you again Watanabe-san in 2 days. get ready for some more long rides and loud laughs.

Tropical storm ANA coming Sunday!
Be ready!

there was one morning when we woke up to a storm. so many things happened that day. from a indonesian boat shipwreck, to lone survivors, to glassy barrels, to dangerous shell picking, to wet everything. but the good thing is that we really needed the rain water to fill back up the boats water tank. now we can finally take a shower again! Toda-san and Takami-san wondering what to do on this beautiful rainy day.

for me, i love the rain. i love to keep cool, keep wet, and keep calm. the rainy weather and dark days makes me feel so relaxed.

then a few of us went for a storm surf. riding a wave on razor sharp reef with the rain stinging your eyes is exciting! i had fun.

Toda-san brought his drone and took some amazing video. a different angle that only the birds and eagles can see. toda-san just put together a short video of our trip and when i watched it last night, i felt like i was there again. it made me happy, it made me smile, and it made me want to go back into my dream again. i miss that lifestyle.

the video should be uploaded soon so you all can see. Toda-san is just putting the finishing touches with some cool background music. check out this shot from his drone of me riding a perfect wave. stay tuned for much more to come!
and if any of you want to get some drone footage of yourself at your local break or on a dream surf trip, Toda-san will be able to provide you the best service. i’ll get you his information soon. aloha.