Thursday January8日 2026年

Triple Crown+Triple Threat!

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woke up this morning and looked at the waves, so beautiful! but since i’m in the water everyday, i went golfing instead.
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Nomura-san is one of the best sports trainers and stretchers in japan. a super cool guy with lots of talent. it was my first time golfing with him so i was looking forward to it.
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i suck at golf! i use to be pretty good, but now i suck because i don’t play anymore. after some bad shots, i started to stress out and wonder “what the heck am i doing here?” i forgot how frustrating golf can be. and after today, i don’t think i’ll ever play again. i love my ocean stress free life.
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Nomura-san is a really good golf player. he helped me with my swing and also kicked my ass in the game.
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i didn’t realize how far golf has come. the equipment is so high tech and so expensive! here is Nomura-san’s golf set. big bucks!
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and here is mine. when i pulled it out, Nomura-san told me “wow, those are some antiques.” haha. so old, do dirty, and so rusty. no excuses, but that doesn’t help my game. i ended up losing, we ate lunch, and went for a surf. as i was rode my first wave, all the golf stress went away. never again.
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surfing is my life, hawaii is my life, and my friends are my life. triple happiness. welcome back to hawaii Inaida-san and Yuki-san! you guys all surfed so great today. and Nomura-san, great gopro video today. haha.
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then i came home and watched some heats in the triple crown of surfing that started up today. so stoked Joshua Moniz advanced today. Seth and Isaiah surf tomorrow. triple crown, triple threat!
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thank you Inaida-san and Yuki-san for the mentaiko and natto from japan. i love it!
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this was my morning breakfast. i had full power all day long!
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and had a wonderful dinner at Gaku last night. i haven’t eaten good sushi in a while so this platter made by Manabu-san melted in my heart.
another long day with great experiences. great people, great waves, great rides, and great news. everybody is happy, so am i!

Wow! Right now!


From Diamond Head Lighthouse!

Billion Dollar X-Woman!

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wow, the waves have been small, but so perfect on the south shore. just clean and long rides!
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cool nights and warm days.
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and when the winds blow out of the north, the water gets really clean. perfect for diving!
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i got a Suunto D6i dive watch for a present. it’s the top of the line and i love it. the other day the strap broke. i was pretty bummed. i emailed Suunto America to ask where i can buy a strap from. they responded in less than an hour asking for my name, address, and watch model. then they said they will send me a replacement strap. cool!!! now that’s a great company!
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the guy on the left is a oil tycoon named Harold Hamm. the lady on the right is his wife Sue Ann Hamm. they are getting a divorce and he has to pay her $1 billion dollars. yeah, $1,000,000,000 or 115,270,000,000 Japanese Yen. what a lucky ex-wife!