Japan: The power of a Super Typhoon.
Good morning 6:50am.
North shore 3-5′ and good. Pipe/Backdoor, Rocky Point, V-Land all good. South shore swell continues. Bowls shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph so clean conditions.
Super sunny and warm with cool trade winds.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i still can’t believe how much i’ve been traveling recently. these past 5 years has been crazy! jumping on an airplane feels like jumping in my car. after my last trip, i told myself “i’m going to stay in hawaii for a while and settle down.” that’s what i tell myself every time i get back. well, things have changed and i’ll be on another airplane in less than 2 weeks. where, when, and why? your guess is just as good as mine.

been spending a lot of time at the Yamari house. just a gathering place for family and friends.

and been spending a lot of time elsewhere too. this ryokan was so cool! a room overlooking the ocean.

and yeah, not only hawaii has power spots. this is a super power spot in japan and Eri-chan is soaking it all up.

the very first time i went to the banyaks 6 years ago, all i remember was the razor sharp reef and fire coral. with the group of 13 of us this time, i knew there were going to be some reef collisions. it’s shallow and very sharp. just ask the 5 people that got cut. here is Matsu with his first tattoo from the banyaks!

first you squeeze a lime to kill the living reef organisms, then you go visit Dr. Al and get the scrub down with the ointment. it stings!

Today was so beautiful in the ocean!
Man vs. Nature.
My new turtle friend.
See you again tomorrow!