every since i got back from indo, i’ve been craving fresh salads. maybe that’s why i feel so dam healthy recently. eat healthy, feel healthy.

and of course i can’t live a day without my miso soup.

had party wave time with Mr. and Mrs. Saito-san today. 2 days ago, Shuko-san didn’t know how to surf so she went shopping instead. today, it was her debut and i was so stoked to see her stand up on her first wave! now she is hooked! these honeymooner’s now have something else in common, surfing! a great bond to a great future ahead.

then it was acai bowl time at the health cove. the best in hawaii.

stoked to meet this wonderful couple. Saito-san surfed super good too. level up from 2 days ago. both are hooked on surfing, and hooked on hawaii. Saito-san and Shuko-san are already planning next years trip. haha. take care and see you surfers again!

then i took Watanabe-san surfing again this afternoon. compared to 2 days ago, he is much healthier, much more energetic, and much more better in surfing. louder laughs, and bigger smiles today. great job Watanabe-san.

Watanabe-san’s wife and parents are here now so after surf the other day, we went to get malasada’s to take back to the hotel. today, he took back bubbies mochi ice cream. i’m sure they enjoyed every sweet bite!

i seriously should be a treasure hunter. i was paddling out to rock piles and seen something weird 6′ deep. i know it wasn’t the reef, i know it wasn’t a fish. so i dive down, open my eyes, and see $70! yeah, i just bought this exact fin a few months ago and paid $70 for it. and i didn’t even have a mask. score!
as i was driving home this evening, i was very happy about today. i taught 3 wonderful people surfing and all of them improved so much just from 2 days ago. we all know the feeling of improvement and when you have a great session, you have a great smile. they all told me how happy they were today but i forgot to tell them how happy i was too. to have a job that can make people happy is the best job in the world. it’s so rewarding and so reviving. surfing is my life and hawaii is my home. so to be able to teach surfing and teach about hawaii, i’m living a golden life. i’m going to sleep with a big smile once again and i’m looking forward to waking up tomorrow and doing it all again. good night.

Cheap and Efficient.

ok, yet another hurricane heading straight for oahu. this one is going to hit us full on! the government already cancelled schools, events, and are preparing for some high winds and heavy rain. most people will be indoors, some surfers will be outdoors. no matter which way the winds are blowing, somewhere is straight off shore. as of now, nobody knows where will be good. but come saturday morning when i wake up, i’ll know where to go. my guess for now is 10′ north shore with super strong off shore winds. that means, big barrels!

we get a hurricane every 23 years or so. this rare year, it’s the 2nd one. can you believe japan gets twenty something typhoons a year? yes, each year japan gets pounded and pounded by typhoons. it’s just a part of daily life in japan. but for us, it’s panic city!

surfing with Abe-san is always fun. just a super stoked surfer in great shape. check out this beautiful wave at bowls rights! it feels good just looking at this photo imagining how it feels taking the drop and riding towards diamond head.

yes, riding towards diamond head. only in hawaii.

thank you Abe-san for the great surfing and great conversations. keep on surfing!

when i first started going on boat trips back in the early 1990’s, i was the only diver. so it would be my responsibility to catch our crew some fresh fish. while the boys would be surfing in the evenings, i’d be sent out on the dingy with orders of sashimi. yes, i missed some amazing sunset surf sessions. but now, things have changed. i go on boat trips with awesome divers. so while they are out catching the nights sashimi, i’m surfing into the sunset. haha. now i know how it feels to surf awesome waves, come back to the boat, open up a bintang beer, sit down on the dinner table, and get served fresh sashimi from fish that have been swimming in the ocean a few hours earlier. i loved it! thanks Kekoa, Travis, Kyle, Cathy, and Al for the sashimi, poke, and all the preparations.

and thank you Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, and Matsu for capturing so many moments on video and stills. i really got to enjoy this trip and realize how photos like this can make people happy. i’m super happy and i’m sure our whole crew are too. nice jump Tiare. Teremakasih!