i went into my garage and pulled out my paddle board this morning. the last time i used it was when i paddled from makapuu to waikiki. the next time i use it will be to paddle from molokai to oahu. am i ready? probably not. will i go? probably.

i wash it off, throw it in the truck, strap it on Mayuki, and just wonder when that day will come. this is something i have to do before i die. something i’ve dreamt about over and over, something i just need to do to complete my life.

i had a funeral to attend this morning. i knew it was going to be sad so i wanted to open up my soul. and the only way is to go surfing. so before the sadness, i had to have happiness. i caught some perfect waves today at bowls!

i knew Chris McDonald ever since i got my first car. he was a owner/partner at Security Alarm Shop and helped me throughout the years. we became friends and every time i see Chris, we would talk about surfing or japan, nothing else. such a kind man, such a respected man, and such a great role mode. i will surely miss his smile, and i’m sure his wife and 2 kids he left behind will too. as i sat at his funeral, i could only think of the good things this wonderful man did for people. he will surely be missed.

after a sad funeral, i had to get happy by eating my favorite ginger chicken plate from Duck Kee. then i went back out into the ocean to open back up my heart and soul.
death is sad, but if you can just hold on to those precious moments you spent with that person, then it’s all good. today really made me think about my life. there are just too many things i have to do before i die. and now i will strive forward to make my life complete. and if in the meantime i don’t make it, you will all know that i tried my hardest.

the other morning i went surfing with Poiman, it was dark, rainy, and cold. just another typical tropical hawaiian day. when our cool trade winds are blowing, it pushes the clouds and rain over the mountains from the east side. that’s when we get passing showers and bright rainbows. the cool thing about this weather pattern is it makes everything green, cools down the island, and produces huge rainbows. and from my experience from living here my whole life, i know it’s going to clear up and become a beautiful day!

20 minutes later, the same sky, the same morning, and the same hawaii. i love it!

had lunch with Alyssa and Cory the other day. as we ate our korean black noodles, i listened to Alyssa’s awesome stories of her last shoot with NHK tv. a 3 week trip with no electricity, no internet, no cell service, and no fresh water. it was just her, the rain water, the spiders, the rats, the flies, and her memories. after this documentary airs on NHK in japan, this girl is going to become freaking famous!!! CLICK HERE TO FOLLOW ALYSSA WOOTEN ON GO-NAMINORI.COM!

and was so cool to see this photo of Matsu, Hikaru, and Miwa-san enjoying dinner in tokyo. these 3 friends of mine were all strangers to each other 2 years ago. now, they go on trips together, surf together, and enjoy life together. that was the main purpose of Go-Naminori and this is what life is all about. connect the people and make this world a better place. gosh, i miss you guys!

Bowls shoulder high.
Crowded and fun!