Tropical Storm Karina coming soon!!!
Good morning 5:30am.
South shore smaller than yesterday.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana, little bigger at Diamond Head. Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time this morning with Sasaki-san. a super cool hard core surfer from Ibaraki. we caught some good waves and had a great talk about things surfers talk about. for example, how Sasaki-san eats, sleeps, and dreams about surfing. on the way to work, he’s doing round house cutbacks on the sidewalks, and in the office, he’s doing off the lips on the walls. haha. i thought that was so funny because i use to do that all the time. when you’re hooked on surfing, that’s all you can think about.

the trade winds finally came back today and diamond head still looked fun. yesterday had a hundred surfers out, today only had 5.

then we picked up Sasaki-san’s lovely wife Mieko-san. ate a curry plate and drank a smoothie at The Spot. had another great talk. for example, we talked about how we love our surfboards more than women. haha. when i was younger, i use to sleep with my surfboard, put it up near the wall and stare at it, wax it gently, and wipe it down better than i wipe my butt. Sasaki-san is the exact same. haha.

do you know every since i started looking at diamond head about 30 years ago, it’s the greenest it’s ever been in the mid-summer. most tourist think diamond head is brown. but not this year, it’s as green as can be and i think it’s so freaking beautiful!

thank you Sasaki-san and Mieko-san for the udon and wonderful time.

also so happy that Hiyori-chan finally got her board!!! another tohoku surfer! awesome!! thank you Naomi-san for sending me this photo! i remember this backyard when i stayed over at your mom’s house. your dog kept on trying to bite me!!! haha.

i use Siri on my iphone a lot recently. obviously she doesn’t understand me. i asked Siri to “remind me to bring water and put it in my truck.” then she said “remind you to bring how old add water to fuck.” what??? pretty funny huh? haha.
by the way, wanted to say hello to Onosei-san and the surfer boys at Wedge Surf in ibaraki. keep on surfing!!!!

i had an awesome time with Jikou-san yesterday. Jikou-san is from wakayama, didn’t surf until only 4 years ago. moved to tokyo, met Matsuo-san at Rise and Shine, and his new life began. another example of never being too late to start surfing. welcome to our world!

before we paddled out, i asked Jikou-san what the biggest waves he’s been in before. he told me head high. i told him the waves were only chest to shoulder high because i didn’t want him to be nervous. well, i lied. it was overhead and he was charging! i’d say he caught over 20 waves and surfed so well.

such a nice guy with a nice background. Jikou-san knows so many people around me including Kimura-san, Naohiro, Ryosuke, Matsuo, Naoka, and more. super cool world to be in!

there is a right way to duck dive, and a wrong way to duck dive. yesterday, we learned the right way, which is to keep forward momentum and paddle straight into the wave. that way, you will keep going forward. if you stop and duck dive, you will get dragged backwards and end up using way more energy.

if you duck dive too soon, the wave will push you back. the key to a good duck dive is to wait until the last second to dive under the wave. that way the wave will push your ass down and bring you back up.

hold the rail and keep on forward momentum. great job Jikou-san!

how easy was that???? Jikou-san’s surfing went up a few levels yesterday. i was so stoked to see him enjoying the rides!