ok, yesterday was amazing! just lucky all the time. we pulled up to the parking lot at 8:45am. usually the water is packed with hungry surfers that were waiting forever for this summer swell. bowls had 30 guys out. i look at rockpiles and seen nobody? what? i tell Takabayashi-san “hey, let’s go surf rockpiles. it is very low tide now so it’s very shallow. if you go straight and fall, you will die. so just get up and turn right!” he said “ok” and we went.

nobody out when we got out there. we surfed it perfect for 45 minutes. just perfect waves, no stress, and amazing rides. this was Takabayashi-san’s first wave.

ok, to paddle out to any spot on the island of oahu and surf it by yourselves is very rare. we kept on going wave after wave taking turns. it was sunny, the waves were off shore, and it couldn’t have been any better.

they call it Rockpiles because there are piles of rocks in the inside. imagine taking off, going full speed ahead, and running right into these rocks? itai!

after everybody seen us having so much fun, it got crowded. so i tell Takabayashi-san let’s go to Bowls. we paddle down and it was freaking perfect! here is Ronnie on a super good left.

Chuck Andrews on the take off. i’ve known Chuck for 30 years and he’s a very nice man. and a very reputable surfer/shaper from the East side of oahu.

how perfect were the waves today? OMG!!!!! i snapped this shot paddling out this afternoon with Gavin and Liam. it was a day when the 2 boys became 2 men. a big wave will change your life.

i seen this guy catch a really good wave. his name is Justin and i hope he gets this photo somehow.

there were a few freak sets that looked like mountains. imagine surfing for the 6th time in your life and have to paddle out a 11’0 surfboard through this? Gavin was right in the impact zone for 6 consecutive big waves. i was right on his side telling him not to panic. because if he did, he would drown.

look closely on the left side of this photo. no, that isn’t a turtle, that is Gavin. haha. after we finished surfing, i told their mother, “your 2 boys just became men today. congratulations.”

Have a nice day!
Good morning 5:50am.
Bowls head high and crowded. 30 surfers already. Super GOOD! Diamond Head 4′ but strong trade side winds.
Super sunny and warm day.
Waves GOOD!
South swell continues.
Going surfing.
Have a nice day and see you in the water!

i woke up and watched the last 30 minutes of the world cup. USA lost against Germany but because Portugal beat Ghana, USA gets to go to the top 16 playoffs. i don’t really understand soccer, but i understand that it’s getting very very popular here in america. everybody is talking about it because USA wasn’t even supposed to win a single game. we are the underdogs and i love it!

then went to pick up Takabayashi-san up for a morning surf. he just came back from a 5 day vacation on molokai so driving through waikiki was a shock for him. a super good surfer and very kind man. we had a dream session this morning.

the waves were coming up all day long. just building and building throughout the day. it was awesome!

thank you Takabayashi for the maguro, kastuo, and nori. i can’t wait to open it and eat it over hot rice!

and yes, it was another beautiful day here in hawaii. good south swell, perfect weather, and lots of aloha!

then surfed with Gavin and Liam for session #6. the waves were giant this afternoon and these kids were so nervous. i was just laughing because i knew exactly how they felt as i was once there before. paddling straight out into 8′ faces had to have been scary. but after they caught their first wave, the nerves went away. great surfing guys and i’m sure you will have some stories to take back to colorado.

thank you so much Nanami-san for the GoPro 3+. i finally have a day off next week and i can’t wait to take it out and use it.

and thank you Nanami-san for the granola too. great for my acai bowls!
surfed so much again today. sunburnt and black as can be. perfect waves and perfect weather. tomorrow is another surf all day kind of day. can’t wait. goodnight.