OMG. I cannot sleep again!!!!

wow! i couldn’t believe how uncrowded bowls was this morning. i was expecting 40 weekend sunday surfers out but there were only a few of us. when the sets came, there were perfect chest high waves and nothing went to waste.

i took Hamano-san surfing this morning. a super cool surfer from saitama. it was his first time surfing in hawaii and i was stoked to see him riding so many good waves. we were so lucky not too many people were out.

the rights were super good these past 2 days. yesterday i caught some perfect ones so i knew this morning would still have some leftovers. and plenty of leftovers there were!

people wonder how i take a photo like this. pretty simple. i take off on the outside, i tell Hamano-san to “GO”, he smiles, takes off, rides, i pull out my camera, i turn it on, i take this photo. sounds easier than it really is but it’s actually pretty hard. sometimes i fall and hit the reef, sometimes we both fall and i get hit from the surfboard, etc. but my motto is “no risk, no reward.” this is definitely worth the risk.

and yes, the best view in the ocean and other day at the office. wanted to say hello to Hiro-san and the surfers at One World in chiba. keep on surfing!

then of course my local friends are also surfing. big Mr. Hagi going big off the bottom!

Guy Hagi’s older brother off the top.

local surfer Mike Ito off the top. pretty cool shot!

Jeannie Chesser and friends came out for a memorial to their surfer friend who just passed away.

us surfers live in the ocean, and we also die in the ocean. when i die, throw me in the ocean and i’ll forever be at peace!

and after surfing memorials, it’s always a tradition to ride a wave for the lost one. here is Jeannie riding one of the best waves of the day sent from up above.

there is the whole entire ocean so i really don’t understand why paddlers come so close to surfers. why is that????

Calvin surfing the parking lot. such a cool hawaiian!

and like usual, it was cloudy with rain in the morning, but then the sun came shining through. another perfect day here in hawaii!

oops, i forgot to post this back on april, 9, 2014. sorry.

we all got back to hawaii yesterday and went surfing. it was cloudy, windy, and usually cold. but for me, it was warm, clean, and felt so good. we had a little spot to ourselves and got to surf in peace. i was so happy to be back home. and i’m sure everybody that comes to hawaii must feel the same way too. good knee paddling Inaida-san.

it’s april and the water is getting warmer, and so is the air. even on the cloudy days, it feels good. maybe because i just got back from freezing japan? probably so.

Yuki-san’s first wave in a while. always good balance and good smile!

Inaida-san has good boards, good wetsuits, good shorts, and good life. just like me. haha.

Nomura-san is one the most fittest japanese man i’ve ever met. super strong, super talented, and super big chest!

and good balance too. the rare goofy footer in the group.
well, my hawaiian lifestyle continues. surf, eat, sleep, work, new friends and old friends. the more i stay here, the more i love here. i wish i didn’t have to leave but in order to balance my life, i have too. and since life is so short, i’m planning to jump on an airplane in a couple of weeks and going to a place i’ve always dreamed of. this year i promised myself to enjoy life more and jump at any opportunity. that’s exactly what i’m doing! good night!