Morning session: Troy @ Bowls.
Good time, good waves, good surfers, good vibe.
Go-Naminori!

had a great time surfing with Shimizu-san. a super cool surfer from Yamaguchi prefecture. always smiling and surfing so good!

look how perfect the waves were! just glassy, sunny, warm, and barreling! good surfing Shimizu-san!

a lot of people asked me about this photo. not too often you will see a big Munu like this these days. and not too often you will see a kid dive down 40′, look into a black hole, and spear a prized fish like this right between the eyes. Seth Moniz is becoming a better and better waterman each time he free dives. so stoked for him! and i asked him if anybody teases him about his mask? he said some people look at him funny when he brings it out. i get teased a lot with mine too because it’s the same old school amasan mask from japan. the cheapest and best mask in the market! but hey, it’s not the mask that catches you fish right? laugh all you want. haha.

Katsura-san amazes me. a very dedicated and very hard working woman. i don’t know too many people that work as hard as she does. i really respect that a lot. and her magic hands makes me feel 10 years younger each and every time. it hurts, but it hurts so good!

thank you Katsura-san for my favorite arare and for the great massages. and you were surfing so good this time too!

have you ever tried this? omg, so good with a cold beer.
last night i felt weird. my body was acting weird. too much sun? too much work? too much play? i could feel my body shutting down on me. my food wouldn’t digest right, my mind was stressed, and my body was cold. i came home early and went straight to bed at 8:45pm. i curled up into a ball and said to myself “please get me through tonight and make me feel good tomorrow morning.” i woke up at 5:30am and felt fresh again. i think i know what it was, it was my body telling me to slow down. the problem is i don’t know how to slow down. haha. but yeah, i think i’m just too active and need to rest my body a little more. so that’s what i will do from now on. slow life.

This world is getting crazy!
Good morning 5:40am.
South shore still strong at 3′. Smaller than yesterday but still super fun. Bowls good again with perfect conditions. 27 surfers out already. Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm day.
Next South swell on Monday.
Our perfect summer continues.
I’m going surfing all day again.
Have a wonderful day!