Friday November28日 2025年

July 31, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Seth Moniz @ Kewalo’s.
So amazing!
Photo by Heff
Good morning 6:30am.
Bowls head hight and clean. 30 surfers out. GOOD WAVES!
Diamond Head overhead and side wind.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

Travel Japan: Taxi or Walk or Heli?

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i jump in a cab from my hotel in tokyo and start my long journey to osaka airport. i ask the taxi driver to take me to shinagawa station which i thought was really close. i was daydreaming and thought it was taking a while. i look at the meter and it was over 2,300 yen! omg! i was ready to tell him to stop, get out, and walk. but it was way too hot!!! so i watch the meter go to 2,500 yen and we finally arrive. i thought to myself, “don’t i have a free rail pass? what the heck was i doing in a taxi?”
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i get to the station and jump on the shinkansen and head to shin-fuji to have lunch with friends. if i didn’t catch that taxi, i would have had to catch the next train 30 minutes later. so paying 2,500 yen for an extra half an hour with my friends is cheap. in fact, it’s priceless. everything happened for a reason.
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Toda-san picks me up and drives me to the beach to check the waves. small perfect little waves. gosh, i wish i had my longboard!
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Toda-san is a pro at flying these helicopters. it’s not easy. i bought one before and actually crashed and broke it on my first try. Toda-san’s a pro at it and i can’t wait for him to bring it to hawaii!
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after we surf, we go to Toda-san’s house and his new bike caught my eye. a classic 50cc honda.
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so of course, i have to take it for a joy ride! when i got back home today, the first thing i did was to look for a used one. haha. don’t be surprised if you see me getting one and riding it to the beach in hawaii.
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had a great lunch with Tomoyuki-san, Takami-san, and Toda-san at their local restaurant. fish everywhere!
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my favorite is the kinme nitsuke. so good!!!! gosh, i was in fuji for only 3 hours but had so much fun. it’s amazing how much fun you can have in such a short time.
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then back on the free train and headed to osaka. it took me 4 hours to get there and i needed the nap.
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then got one of the last seats on the flight luckily! sat down, drank my orange juice, thought what a wonderful trip i had, reclined my seat, put on my headphones, slept, and woke up in hawaii. a very comfortable ride!
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then passed by diamond head, looked and realized how beautiful it was, and took a deep breath of fresh air.
i’m glad to be back home. work starts tomorrow as i’m looking forward to surfing and being in the ocean every single day!
check out the short video Toda-san sent me from yesterday. thanks Toda-san! see you in Indo!
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D9tpR-NdMM&list=UUtJ9f51MbFKk–YrDV2t-xg[/youtube]

Tadaima!


I’m home! Going surfing!