another great surfing day. everybody thought the waves were going to drop today but it didn’t. it was still solid 3-5′ and going off! surfed 3 rounds and would have surfed 4 if the sun wasn’t burning my body so bad.

had a great session with Tae-san and Koki-san this morning. the waves were huge and challenging but we had some nice rides. super cool japanese surfers!

i surfed 2 rounds totaling 4 hours this morning. i was so hungry so i went to Choi’s Garden and ate my favorite korean special.

BBQ chicken plate!

speaking of chickens. Butter has been injured. i came home 4 days ago and she couldn’t walk. something happened to her left leg so i’ve been hand feeding her and taking good care of her everyday. i didn’t think i’d ever talk to a chicken but i do. just by looking into her eyes, i could tell that she wants me to help her. so i’ve been feeding her watermelon, mango, cabbage, corn, and other yummy stuff.

i was watching her as she ate the mango. she would put her only good leg on the mango to keep it from moving while she ate it all. i seriously thought she was going to die a few days ago but she’s hanging on. i hope she gets better soon.

wanted to thank Tae-san for all of the goodies from japan! omg, i love it!!!

and yes, i’m a somen lover so this will be my next lunch. i can’t wait to try it! thanks Tae-san!

i checked diamond head this evening and it was still solid 4′ with some 5′ sets. totally uncrowded everywhere as surfers are already burnt out, or too scared of the big waves.

another great sunset to another great surfing day. surfed 3 rounds and am very satisfied. tomorrow still should have some nice waves and i’m hoping to dawn patrol. good night from hawaii!

Lighthouse 4′ and GOOD!
Only 9 surfers out.

gosh, the waves have been so good! everybody so happy and so many happy faces in the water. surfing is such a great sport. keeps you healthy, happy, and at peace. the older i’m getting, the more i love surfing. something i will never get tired of.

longboards, shortboards, SUP, bodyboards, or what ever. riding a wave any way you want is a natural high.

and yeah, waiting for a wave isn’t that bad too. just looking around and enjoying the perfect scenery.

every angle looking great.

and paddling in with a big smile is the best feeling. when you ride good waves, you know. and when you don’t, there will always be tomorrow.

here are five simple rules of happiness:
1. Free your heart from hatred.
this is something that took me almost 40 years to do. believe it or not, i use to hate everything. now, i love everything and my life is much better.
2. Free your mind from worries.
nobody was as much as a worry freak than me. i use to worry about what people said about me, i use to worry about the weather, i use to worry about dying. now, i have no worries because everything happens for a reason. let it be, let it be!
3. Live simply.
yes, live simply and you will have a stress free life. no need glamor, no need things you don’t need. just be happy with what you have.
4. Give more.
giving is a gift and if you haven’t done it before, try it and you will feel great.
5. Expect less.
give without expecting anything back. lower your expectations in people and it will keep you from disappointment.
if you can follow these 5 rules, you will live a happier life!