Abunai!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 4-6′ and looking pretty good. Pipeline barreling! South shore chest high and crowded! New overhead South swell tomorrow? Really? Winds are trades at 15-20mph.
Little clouds in the morning becoming super sunny!
Clean house and go surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

another super hot day in hawaii. perfect little waves in town, perfect sunny, and paradise.

had the full brunch yesterday with Ishii-san. so much food!

went to surf bowls this morning and seen a huge luxury yacht parked right out in front. seen the helicopter parked on the back too. Maki-san told me “motivation!” yeah, i’m motivated to get a big yacht, but not this big. it’s a pain in the ass just to maintain. i wonder who’s the owner of this one? it was a pretty sight to see while surfing and dreaming.

surfed with Kuki-san today. a super cool osaka chef that surfs really good.

Kuki-san has dreams and i hope it comes true because it will make many people in hawaii very happy!

fisheye from the water.

it was pretty crowded to day but everybody was sharing so it was cool. we caught some pretty good ones!

then i came home to babysit my grand nephew. so cute!!!

then he started to cry. i had to take a photo of him. haha.

he was climbing up my sofa looking out the window for mommy and daddy. only 8 months old. so cute!

wanted to thank Iishi-san for the leaf pie from sendai!

i’m so proud of Seth and Isaiah. these 2 boys did so well this year on the north shore these past 2 seasons and now they are on the top of their game. placing 1st and 2nd at the Pipeline Junior Pro is amazing. it’s a bummer that only one could win but i’m sure these kids will keep on going 1st and 2nd in many more to come. what’s next? well, they finished their north shore season so will move back to town, surf contests almost every weekend, travel the world, free dive, boat trips, photo shoots, and much more. it’s a busy life being a professional surfer but nobody’s complaining. the kids have a gift and are using it in the right way. i’m so excited to see how far they will go.
can you believe it’s the end of march already? omg, i’m so excited to go to japan soon. it’s only going to be for a few days but even one day is nice. eat some good food, visit friends, and enjoy my time. it seems like i haven’t been off this island in a while. so excited!!!
and i was surfing yesterday and everybody was asking me “when is that south swell coming?” i said “what south swell?” a south swell was forecasted but didn’t arrive yesterday. i keep on telling people that it’s just too hard to predict a south swell. the storms are as far down to new zealand so by the time the swell goes across the pacific ocean, who knows what will happen. sometimes it comes, most of the times it doesn’t. you just have to wake up, check, and see for yourself. or better yet, check my morning surf report because i can see and smell waves in the dark. haha. summer is here and i’m stoked to be able to drive 10 minutes and surf perfect waves with my friends. see you in the water!