i went up into the mountains last week to get some fresh air. totally different vibe, smell, taste, and noise from the ocean. love um both!

then i passed by some trees and noticed a fruit way on the top.

so i climb the tree like a monkey and pick it. it turned out to be a creamy avocado!!!!

so i take what i need, and come home.

i had such a great surf session again yesterday with Masamune. it was our third time this trip and when i asked him where he wanted to eat, he told me “mushroom chicken.” i took him to Andy’s last year and he remembered the mushroom chicken plate that they only serve on tuesday. what a great memory.

at $5.95, there is nowhere else on this island you can find such a great plate lunch.

i asked Masamune what his name meant in japanese. he told me “i was named after a samurai.” what??? i was surprised!!! it turns out, he was named after the famous Samurai named Date Masamune. Date Masamune founded Sendai and was a great Samurai warrior. that is so cool!!!! next time i go to Sendai, i’m going to visit Masamune!

another great day with a great family. Masamune’s younger sisters name is Iroha. Iroha was the name of Date Masamune’s daughter. that’ so cool!

thank you Masamune and the Urakami-san family for the great time in hawaii and for the lei! mahalo!

took this photo the other day of 74 year old Legend Surfer Ben Aipa. still surfing and still having fun.

the golden sunset of oahu from the middle of the ocean. my true power spot!

Welcome to America: DON’T SHOOT!!!
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean conditions.
Diamond Head shoulder high and side winds.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clear and sunny sky. Very warm again with cool trade winds. New South swell tomorrow! Another South swell Saturday! Solid 5′ and perfect! Surfing 2 or 3 rounds today.
Have a wonderful day!

it’s always a pleasure teaching kids how to surf. i just love doing it because i will never ever forget the first time i surfed when i was 6 or 7 years old. it was only a few waves but that was the spark that lead to this fire i have for the ocean. i can still remember that day like it was yesterday. so for these kids, i know this day will be remembered for a long long time. Kai is 10 years old and Maika is 8 years old. two cute kids!

for surfing, it’s either love or hate. if you have a great first experience, you will love it. if you have a bad first experience, you will hate it. that’s why i tell a lot of my friends before they take their kids surfing to make sure the surf is perfect, the equipment is perfect, and the day is perfect. if not, don’t even try it. this past sunday couldn’t have been any better! just look at the stoke on Maika’s face as we paddled out. this is pure stoke!

first wave!!! look forward, bend your knees, and everything will be alright! good job Maika!!!

another angle as i just watch this kid ride the best wave of his life!

and yes, a high 5 is mandatory after a good wave!

i met Maika and Kai a few times before, but this day was the first time i seen them smile like this. i truly believe that surfing can bring out the best smiles in the world.

then it was Kai’s turn. i could tell he was a little more nervous but after a few waves, he became comfortable with the ocean. i was so stoked to see him surf so well.

once again, bend your knees and look forward. perfect surfing Kai!!!
when i downloaded these photos last night, i couldn’t stop laughing. kids are so pure and to see their nervousness turn into happiness just by riding a wave is priceless. i can’t wait to take them again!
oh, and to see the whole Nakamoto family come down to the beach to watch and support the kids was awesome. that is priceless too!