i had a great time with Saiki-san and Torimoto-san today. we were supposed to surf yesterday but decided to push our surf session to today which was a great decision. the waves were terrible yesterday and perfect today. so happy to surf with these osaka girls! and after surfing in the rain, we went to warm up with some hot pho.

then it was desert time at leonard’s bakery. i can’t believe how long the lines are now days. you have to wait 30 minutes just to eat a dollar malasada. but after you take your first bite into the warm deep fried doughnut, it’s all worth the wait.

great surfing girls! hope you enjoyed your last day in hawaii. shaka!

i’ve been checking out some nice condo’s for a friend. i learned so much these past few years on the real estate industry in hawaii. i’m not a licensed realtor but if i was, i would have made about $100,000 on buys and sells. today i was looking at a million dollar condo that just went on the market a few days ago. just this view is worth more than a million dollars to me. and if it was sunny, it would be worth two million. this one is a keeper.

then i came home and played with my grand nephew. he is so cute! when he cries, i cry. haha. he took a nap, so did i. then i woke up at 5pm, checked the waves, perfect glassy conditions, load the boards, head to bowls, surf the perfect evening session all the way until waikiki started lighting up. super stoked day! freezing cold, eat dinner, take shower, and now i’m going to sleep pretty satisfied. then tomorrow morning getting up early and surfing again. good night!

My grand nephew Mateus!

did you hear about the elderly man that died in the hospital? the doctors pronounced him dead. they put him in a body bag. and later he woke up and said “let me out!” OMG! that’s crazy!

so happy to see the walls up on Davis’s house in cambodia.

i took this photo a while back of my friend Pakana after he speared this monster moana kali. this was at one of my secret spots near kewalo’s. now i feel like diving because i’m getting hungry for steamed fish.

ok, i just got invited on a boat trip. a boat trip i’ve been longing to go on. not the mentawai’s, not the philippines, but somewhere far more remote. i’ve been there once in my life and the waves weren’t the greatest that time. so this time, i’m expecting better waves as we search for big barrels. i can’t wait!