Rio Pro Billabong Brasil ON!!! WOMEN’S FINAL LIVE!
http://www.aspworldtour.com/
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 2′ and onshore. Bumpy and ugly.
South shore waist high. Morning sickness, better in the afternoon. Cloudy morning, sunny afternoon.
Winds trades from the North/East at 15mph.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

say goodbye to those hot humid days and say hello to the cool tradewinds. yes, the automatic free air conditioner is back on! today between 12-2pm the weather switched and that’s when the waves were absolutely perfect! we surfed ala moana with only one other guy out. perfect glassy waves, just like mentawai!

had a great time surfing with Fujimoto-san. so stoked to see him catching so many waves and smiling so much!

great balance! shaka Mr. Fujimoto-san!

and last night was hawaiian sushi night again. i tell everybody that they must experience this restaurant. the best sushi in the world! look at the otoro!!! melt in your mouth!!!

japanese culture just amazes me. the time and quality of the preparation is just flawless. it’s like art! and when it hits the palate, it’s like a dream. it feels like heaven!