omg, i’m so sunburnt and tired so i’m going to make this fast.

woke up early and checked diamond head. still small but i could tell that the new swell was coming from the south/west direction. that’s a good indicator for a great swell to come!

went surfing with Sakamoto-san and was stoked to see him catch some of the biggest waves of his life.

Sakamoto-san is surfing so much better than the other day. was so happy to have lunch with his father after too. super cool family.

and super stoked to see Akoi-chan’s mother always enjoying herself in the water.

all day long, the waves were coming up. i surfed 3 rounds and haven’t surfed this much in a while. it’s only 8:30pm, i’m finished with my bbq, and i’m ready to sleep. looking forward to tomorrow. should be epic in the morning! see you out there. good night.

The South swell is here!
Solid overhead!
I surfed 3 rounds.
So sunburned, so tired, and so hungry!
BBQ time!

as most people know, predicting the south shore swells in hawaii is the hardest. the swells generated down by australia has to make its way all the way up to hawaii and by the time it arrives, it’s almost gone. nobody has ever gotten it right, and most of the south swells are disappointing. they were saying last week that the swell was supposed to arrive on wednesday. then thursday, then friday, then now it’s saturday. i never get my hopes up high because this is just how life is on the south shore. usually small, but when a swell does arrive, it’s freaking awesome! this was last nights forecast for today. looked promising and i bet a lot of surfers called in sick today. sorry guys, try again tomorrow. haha.
light winds all week so epic conditions once the swell arrives. see you in the water!