Such a beautiful day!

traveling is so amazing. it’s the experience, the friends, and the memories. but most of all, it makes me realize how good we have it here in hawaii. each time i leave, i appreciate hawaii and my lifestyle much more. rain doesn’t bother me. traffic doesn’t bother me. and pretty much nothing bothers me. i’m in a great place mentally and spiritually. i take my friends surfing and i’m feeling just as good as they are. the more they look around and realize how beautiful hawaii is, so do i. and to spend my life in the ocean is just the icing on the cake. i seriously feel like it’s my first time to hawaii each and every time i come home. i love it!

Inaida-san is very technical when it comes to surfing. he just wants to get better and better. yesterday was a big jump in his surfing level. much more confident riding bigger waves. longer rides, and bigger smiles. i keep on telling everybody that it is never too late to start surfing, Inada-san is a perfect example of that.

and i still can’t believe that Yuki-san only started surfing 3 years ago. she surfs like she’s been surfing her whole life. amazing!

i pretty much have my hang 5 down. it’s pretty easy to get to the nose and ride it the whole way. now i’m trying to hang 10. i think i’m almost there! i just have to do what i tell everybody else to do, LOOK FORWARD AND BEND YOUR KNEES!!!! haha.

What??? Backdoor and Pipeline in May? 5:45am.
3-4′ right now and GOOD!
South shore waist high and GOOD!
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect again.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Super sunny and warm day.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!