One Forever

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i had a great time with Kubota-san this morning. we paddled out to bowls and it was super sunny, super glassy, super clean, and super fun! not crowded at all so we caught so many good waves. on the way in, Kubota-san told me today was the best waves he ever surfed in his 7 year career. i was so happy to hear that! a great surfer, a great We Are One supporter, and a great person. thank you very much!
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then i took this lovely couple to eat the biggest prime rib on the island. after this, i was full. and it’s 8pm now and i’m still full. haha.
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one means long life, and the other means safe surfing. thank you Kubota-san for the good luck charms from japan. a long life surfing safe is a dream life!
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i have this photo i took on my desktop. i love it because you can see this cool turtle close up, and way behind you can see a big kumu coming out of the hole. where is this? right in waikiki!
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this was Hiyori-chan’s suitcase when she came to hawaii. when i first saw it, i was really emotionally happy. and now i really miss her. One Forever!

Fine Young Gentlemen's!

when ever i come back from a trip, i’m always glad to be back home. but this time, a part of my heart was left behind in cambodia. i just had such a great time there and learned so much about life and how precious every minute is. i’m wanting to go back already and i’m wanting to take people with me. it’s just a great chance to see the world, the people, the culture, and the hardships. and at the same time, you can be a part of the kids amazing lives. i wish it was closer because if it was, i would go there every weekend.
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just to see the kids working so hard, smiling so hard, playing so hard, and loving so much is incredible.
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i was bummed i missed John on my last day because i wanted a photo with him. but i know he is very busy and i respect him so much for doing all what he’s done for the kids. and Kathy too. just 2 amazing people that made a big difference in this world. and now that my brother is involved with the kids, i know things are only going to get better and better.
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as i was leaving on my last day, the kids ran to open my car door. such gentlemen at a young age. these kids are well mannered, well behaved, and well taken care of.
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then going in the city and riding a tuktuk around for 2 days made me understand where these kids come from. and it made me realize that they are in good hands at the NHCC. it was really comforting to know that.
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i love seeing monks walking around. just pure devotion and pure culture.
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my brothers been sending me video clips of my little girl Kalyan. just her voice and smile can make my day a lot better. and last night i video chatted with my brothers 1st graders. so cute! i really miss those kids already.

4 February, 2014 02:46


Diamond Head chest high.
9 surfers out.
Sunny!