another one of my new years resolutions is to travel more in 2014. just go to places i’ve never been before, meeting people, taking photos, and living in the culture. traveling is the best way to gain knowledge, become more appreciative, and to become a better person. it makes you think about things you would never think about in your daily lives.

i had no idea about Uruguay so jumping on a ferry and entering an unknown country was exciting. an experience i will never forget.

the daily life is so simple. look at this cool house.

then you walk into the local store and see things you will never see in hawaii.

want salami? i actually bought a piece and it tasted pretty good with a glass of wine.

and bought some tomatoes for a salad. look how they weight it. simple and amazing.

and not to mention the waves right out in front where i was staying. Uruguay is country i will visit again. it’s a place where i would like to spend a month or so going deeper and deeper into the culture.
some people ask me where i would like to visit. here is my short list.
Butan to hang out with the monks.
Greece to see the Parthenon in Athens.
The Blue Hole in Belize to free dive 80 meters.
Cambodia to visit my brother taking care of the kids with Aids.

[youtube http://youtube.com/w/?v=IiuqVHckI78]
OMG! Big Wave!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore clean at 2-3′.
South shore clean at waist high.
Every where perfect conditions.
No wind becoming light onshore later this afternoon.
Clear sky with some clouds.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

with a huge storm approaching the island, timing is key in getting good waves. woke up early, checked it and looked terrible. then around 8am, things started to change. the winds turned and cleaned up town. i call Miwa-san, head down to the harbor, pick her up for a long morning session.

it’s always good to see Miwa-san. a girl with big dreams, one of them is to live in paradise! i think it will happen someday but until then, being happy and enjoying life is what she’s doing. i pick her up in my floating car.

then we enter the ocean from the opposite side. a close paddle, good waves, we surf for 3 hours, catch long rides, a lot of smiles, and then the storm approaches. it went from perfect sunny weather to one of the darkest days of the year.

the girls were swimming in the pool as the storm approached. 1 minute after they got out, the rain and thunder came down hard!

so we warm up by eating pho at the new Pho Saigon. probably one of the best pho in hawaii. very clean, very tasty, and very hot. just order the beef balls or rare meat because the chicken is a little dry. $9 and very happy.

my job should be the weatherman. nobody watches the wind, sky, clouds, radar, and waves more than me.

then Katsura-san and i paddle out for a quick afternoon session. a new experience, great rides, and a big smile. another great day in paradise!
huge swell on friday. stay tuned!