more photos from yesterday in hawaii ne.

this is how it all starts. kids playing in the ocean, maybe one a future waterman.

here’s a legend waterman Tony Moniz in the water with Nala.

live off the ocean, hawaiian style.

i watched Shun Murakami transform from a little boy with big dreams into a big boy living those dreams on the north shore of oahu.

surfing brings great things. friendships forever.

Mari-chan on a perfect clear head high sandbar wave at off the wall.

Alyssa Wooten always everywhere with a smile.

and also catching a lot of waves where ever she surfs. Pipeline.

or Backdoor. good surfing Alyssa!

Josh, Mari, and Judy on the paddle out.

Josh Moniz turned into a man overnight. omg, this kid is big!

and Josh Moniz doing big things on small waves.

we are sitting at the billabong house fronting backdoor. Takahashi-san checking the waves. i say “hey, this is the perfect chance to make your debut at the infamous backdoor. no heavy locals out, perfect size, and a beautiful day.” he paddles out and shoot his first ever backdoor wave. and i’m sure it won’t be his last. take a good look at the reef through the wave. a lot of people might think this is shallow, but okinawa is a lot more shallow than this. nice photo! o’yeah!

Welcome to Black Friday.
Long lines.
Traffic.
No parking.
Help!
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore HUGE! 12-15′ and most spots closing out.
Triple Crown Sunset ON!!!! 8am start: http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/vansworldcupofsurfing2013/live South shore waist high and onshore.
South winds at 15mph.
Sunny with clouds.
Heavy rain this weekend.
Have a wonderful day!

today is thanksgiving day in hawaii and today is a day to be thankful. i woke up and checked the waves, it was small so i thought i’d stay home and work. but today wasn’t a holiday for a reason, i turned off my computer and went to the beach with my friends.

i drive to the north shore and look at laniakea. OMG, the most people i’ve ever seen in my life. i knew i could have paddled out and caught waves but no way for my friends from japan. so i thought today would be a day to enjoy a day of surfing at my super secret spot. a spot i only take people i trust so they won’t tell anybody else. and if they do, they aren’t my friends anymore. really, it’s that special and that secret to me.

we park the car, no need check the waves because i already knew exactly how it was going to be. head high sets and nobody out. well, there were 2 guys out but can’t help because it’s a holiday.

i catch a few, then come in and take some photos to share the moment, and share this beautiful day. Toda-san on a super glassy left.

SUP power cutback!

Takami-san caught the most waves out there today. just good sense and good riding.

imagine having a session with perfect waves and great friends.

Takahashi-san had a great session today. o’yeah!

i let him try my magic board and it was magic! o’yeah!

David from okinawa ripping!

Toda-san can probably eat a whole turkey by himself.

Takami-san wouldn’t let Toda-san eat a turkey by himself.

Takahashi-san always teases me. but i just have to think that’s his love. haha.

David, don’t tell anybody where we surfed today!

colors with Hikaru-san.

then met some other friends up at off the wall. full photos coming tomorrow. Judy-chan, Jen, and Mari-chan.

i shot 1000 photos yesterday. shot, surfed, talked, and had fun. here is a photo i really like of Mari-chan and Judy-chan paddling out in paradise.
was driving home thinking how fortunate i have such great friends. today is a day to be thankful and i’m very thankful of you all. my life wouldn’t be the same without each and every one of you. thank you from the bottom of my heart.