So hot and so good!

The Blue Hole: I want to free dive here someday!
Good morning 6am.
Small surf again.
North shore flat.
South shore knee high.
Diamond Head biggest at shoulder high.
Light winds today and tomorrow.
Sunny sky.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

today was awesome!!!! everyday is a lucky day for me because i’m alive!!!!

i took Yumi-san surfing this morning and it was so amazing. from the perfect waves, to the dolphins jumping, to the hawaiian ceremony, to the laughter, to the tears. it was mixed emotions but i couldn’t have asked for a better place to be.

Yumi-san is a yoga teacher in japan so her balance is amazing! this isn’t easy to do.

then second round Team Ina. if Yuki-san entered a contest, i think she would win!

Inaida-san caught some awesome waves this afternoon. long rides both ways.

the weather was calling for heavy rain this past few days. all i seen was heavy blue sky!

this morning i paddled out to a locals hawaiian ceremony at bowls. it’s days like this that changes my life. makes me think how lucky i am, and makes me appreciate my life, my friends, every single minute of every single day. i just want to let you know if i die today, i lived a fulfilling life. and i thank you all for that!