Merry Christmas Darling!

November 28, 2013

what a perfect day in hawaii! had some things to catch up on so stayed in town running around. then looked at the ocean and decided to check out my secret spot. nobody out so i paddled out to get a few waves. great to be back in the clear ocean! going north shore tomorrow for sure!

want to meet the champion? well, tomorrow night is your chance for all of you in japan. Kelia Moniz is going to be in tokyo and you can meet the 2x World Champion! the last time we at Go-Naminori made a party for her in shonan, hundreds of people showed up and a lot even got turned away because it got too full. that was like 5 years ago before she even was a champion so i’m expecting a huge turnout for this event. i wish i could go too but i’ll see my beautiful niece when she gets back to hawaii on dec. 1. CLICK HERE FOR INFO ON TOKYO EVENT!

i really don’t like to read books. why? because for 4 years in college, i had to read so many books! books on accounting, math, art, marketing, finance, economics, management, and all kinds. my brain was fried of reading! but everything changed last week in japan. Inaida-san bought me this book called IQ84 written by Haruki Murakami. i really didn’t want to pick it up at first but i peaked inside and thought i’d read chapter 1.

now i’m on chapter 8 and i’m super hooked! this is a really interesting book of interesting people. it might take me a while but i’m determined to read all of it!

so thick! i remember my professors in college made me read books like this. the would tell me, “read this book by next week and you will get an exam on it.” what??? and that was just 1 out of my 6 classes! thank good for coffee those days.

wanted to thank Saito-san for this wonderful sweet gift. going to eat some for desert tonight.

and yes, when santa claus goes up on ala moana shopping center, it means christmas is coming!
they played my all time christmas song on the radio today. it made me soooo happy! merry christmas everyone!!!! ho ho ho!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR1ujXx2p-I[/youtube]

Diet in Hawaii

November 28, 2013

after i ate my sushi donbori in the morning, and my ramen with side rice for lunch on my last day in tokyo, i felt like a pig. i felt heavy, lazy, and out of shape. no way i could have paddled to molokai. no way! i love japanese food so i just eat, eat, and eat. and the only exercising i’m doing is raising the draft beer mug with my right hand. so in the past week, i gained 10lbs! but no problem, in 3 days, i’ll be down to normal because i’m a very active guy here in hawaii and i don’t know how to stay still. haha.

i skipped dinner in tokyo, slept on the airplane, and skipped breakfast. arrived in hawaii and ate chazuke for a snack. then headed to Down to Earth for a light lunch.

the deli in there is super good. healthy and a big selection of great homemade meals.

i made a small plate and had a wonderful healthy lunch.

then passed by the cookie section and had to buy one.

then washed my lunch down with some kombucha. my homemade kombucha is much better.

grabbed these photos off the ASP site. Seth Moniz smiling winning his heat easily.

this is the incredible barrel Seth got in his heat. go an 8.5 out of 10 for this wave. great style!

and Josh Moniz big turn and big spray.

round 2 is very interesting! look at the 2 brothers in the same heat! OMG, wouldn’t that be cool if they both got 1 and 2? wish them luck!