the evening sunsets have been amazing! driving down my street in kaimuki enjoying the free painting. awesome!

had a super fun surf session this morning with Suto-san from Sendai. super good surfer with a super good soul! and super long riding! it’s Suto-san’s first time to hawaii so when i picked her up, i asked her “how is hawaii?” she told me, “um, i don’t have the being in hawaii feeling.”

so after we surfed, i took her to the real hawaii. green mountains, fresh air, and million dollar views. welcome to the real hawaii! the hawaii i love!

speaking of million dollar views, last night at the waikiki yacht club was amazing! fireworks, champagne, yachts, friends, birthday, and memories.

wanted to congratulate Katsura-san again on her hawaiian birthday night. Katsura-san truly inspires me. i see her working really hard and you can tell she just loves her job. her job is to make people feel good, healthy, and happy. i respect that!
ok, pipeline masters was amazing! watched heats throughout my work day. watching kelly slater win it again for the 7th time was amazing. and watching mick fanning win the world title on his last wave was super exciting. the circus is over on the north shore as most surfers will be going back home for the holidays. now it’s our time to enjoy the barrels without the frenzy! see you out there!

Awesome!!!
Photo: ASP/Cestari

yeah, the weather is still been super warm. it’s december and the water is warm, sky is blue, and waves everywhere. enjoy it because i’m pretty sure the water will be colder soon and once the north winds come, get out the jackets.

look at the beautiful egg my chickens are giving me now! perfect over the hot rice! ever since i got my chickens, i haven’t bought an egg from the supermarket. and i have absolutely no desire to eat one from the supermarket because i know these are the most freshest on the island.

had a wonderful 3 days surfing with Yumi-san. this girl almost quit surfing last year after getting hurt by her own surfboard in isounora. now she’s surfing super good and with a lot of confidence. she didn’t fall even once yesterday. amazing! thank you Yumi-san for the great surf sessions! i’ll download the turtle photos off my camera next week and send them to you. have a safe trip back to japan and see you again!

i’ve been using my boat more than ever recently. just to go out and spear one fish, it’s worth it. from the time i leave the harbor, i’m feeling the wind in my face and feeling so free. and once i jump into the underwater world, nothing in the world can bother me. it’s just me vs. nature. amazing!

i go down 30′, look in a hole, see a menpachi way in the back, see an aggressive shark circling in the front, i wait for him to pass me, i go into the hole, spear the menpachi, bring it up, clean it, and take it home.

not too big, not too small, but just perfect size!!!!
i’ll probably be back out there again this afternoon. i can’t wait for the wind on my face and to see what will be for dinner next.