Waves are going off!
Overhead sets and perfect conditions!!!!!

yesterday was an awesome day. it’s the 3rd time in 3 years i surfed with Nakamoto-san and i was super happy to see him getting better and better. he loves surfing, he loves hawaii, and he loves food! thank you for a wonderful morning surf!

then round 2 in the afternoon and the waves were perfect! i’d say the conditions and wave quality was a 100 points out of 100. just pure glassy and pure perfect! today was about the 400th time in the past 2.5 years i surfed with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. improving every session and loving life more and more.

Yuki-san is pretty brave. if a 10′ wave comes in and i say “go!”, Yuki-san would go!

Inaida-san caught a pretty big wave today and looked very calm. he has good boards, he has good sense, and he has good style. surfing is our life! thank you Inaida-san and Yuki-san for all the fun and all the support!

last, we see turtles everyday. to swim with them is amazing. thank goodness i had my camera yesterday. this shot is a keeper. Yuki-san and turtle hand in hand. what an amazing world we live in. when ever i see turtles, it reminds me of the book i read as a child called “Urashima Taro.” that why i like to ride turtles deep down into the deep blue sea. if i come back, ok, if i don’t come back, ok. i’m living in a dream anyway so what ever happens happens.

Flexible!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana. Super clean conditions. 20 surfers at Bowls already. Shoulder high at Diamond Head and clean.
North shore FLAT. BUT, coming up to 5′ by this evening.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Clear sky.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!