salamat malan! omg again! we went looking for waves this morning. i wanted to surf any place, except Keramas. why? because i surfed there already 3x and i knew it was going to be crowded after the contest. well, luckily, i was wrong! we pulled up to just check it and the waves were going off! solid 6′ barrels. so i grab my board, run down the beach, and count how many surfers were in the water. only 3!!!! omg! 3 surfers at perfect 4-6′ barreling Keramas? are you kidding me? am i dreaming? no i’m not and no i’m not. barrel after barrel, i was in heaven. these are the moments i live my life for. it’s moments like this that makes my life exciting, makes me happy, and makes my life complete. i couldn’t have been in a better place in the whole wide world. Keramas was the best place this morning for me, and i was there! yeah! what a wonderful day!

this is our pool at our hotel. i didn’t even have a chance to get my feet wet. been too busy here in bali.

took my 2 tshirts to get it washed. it only cost 30 cents or 30 yen. so cheap!

every seen long papayas like this before? crazy!

it’s so hot here so an afternoon nap in a cool place is a must. Kimura-san and i found to wood sofas and took a great 20 minute nap in the shade.

i love coconuts, especially with flowers coming out of them. haha.
well, i’m leaving tonight back to japan, then transiting and going back to hawaii tomorrow night. it takes 28 hours to get home from here. i was talking to a guy in the water this morning and when he found out i’m only here for 4 days, he told me “Congratulations! You are hard core!” haha.
when i get back to hawaii, i’m ready to work hard. and when i work hard, great things happen. then i’ll be looking forward to my next trip! enjoy your life because you only have one!

OMG! Waves going off now!!!
I’m going surfing!

i still can’t believe i’m here in bali. seen some friends here and they told me “why didn’t you tell me you’re coming?” well, i didn’t plan to come here so i told them, i actually planned to go to central america. then they look at me like i’m either lying, or crazy. no, i’m not lying, but i might be crazy. coming to bali almost every year since 1993 has made me grow up. i see the fast pace life, i see the changes, and i see the culture. no, i can’t adjust to a lifestyle like this, but to hang here for a few days is like a dream. bali bagus! Aria took this photo the other day at a secret spot down the road as i was about to paddle out early sunrise time for a great barrel session.

i wanted to surf everyday. i’m not trying to have marathon sessions, i just want to jump in, catch a few barrels, and enjoy the rest of the day. i’m doing exactly that! and when i get back to hawaii in 2 days, there will be a south swell waiting for me. unbelievable luck! by the way, here i’m riding my 6’0 TSSC round pin shaped by Matchi. this board works good and i love it!

i’m a photographer, so when i see a perfect situation of capturing a good photo, i take it. i saw this setup yesterday and i was thinking “Roxy” all the way. i snapped the shot and this is a Roxy ad for sure. makes you just want to jump in the photo right? a perfect screensaver from the beautiful island of bali!
i leave tonight and i’m looking forward to coming back. yeah, it’s super crowded and lots of traffic, but i’m still experiencing things i like to experience. everyday passes and i keep on telling myself “life is short, so enjoy every minute of it.” i’m enjoying every single second!