omg, my body is tired, my skin is black, and i’m exhausted. but when there’s waves, i surf. so today will be no different then the past few days. see you in the water. but first, check out some photos i took from yesterday.

from the beach out to big rights is super far. but with the naked eye, i can tell who’s out just by their style. i’m pretty sure this is Greg Nakamura doing a nice off the top.

and this is Kyle Nakamoto pulling in. i’m 100% sure Kyle doesn’t know anybody was shooting him yesterday. great timing as i just pulled out my 400mm lens.

ala moana beach bunny.

a lot of my friends have been telling me that kewalo’s rights has been the best ever. they say it was just like backdoor. so when i looked down and seen 5 perfect waves in a row, i knew this swell was special. in fact, this swell is much better than the last big one. lucky us!

Keoni Jones @ Bowls. Smile!

Ronnie Ungas @ Bowls. Helmet!

and i spotted Hiro from my lens. the only japanese surfer getting sets out at bowls. good job Hiro!

Sandy Beach Yesterday! Beautiful! Photo: Hawaii News Now
Good morning 6am.
South swell continues.
4-5′ at Ala Moana Bowls.
Ala Moana Park 2-4′.
Perfect conditions.
Off shore winds at 15-25mph.
Sunny sky.
Surf 2x today.
Have a wonderful day!

UNBELIEVABLE!!!! that was the word coming out of every local surfers mouth today, including mine! today was just plain UNBELIEVABLE!!!! i paddled out to big rights at 10am, i just knew the waves were going to get better and better so i planned a 2 hour session, then lunch, and another 2 hour session. the waves kept coming and coming! 6′ sets with huge barrels! big enough to stand up, smile, and make it all the way to the inside. barrel after barrel and smile after smile. that’s how my session went all day. instead of paddling in for lunch, i stayed out and skipped lunch. stayed out till past 2pm. 4.25 hours of pure barrel surfing. i’ve been surfing big rights for the past 28 years and today was by far the best day ever. my friend Ronnie Yamada who is one of the longest locals out there said the same thing. UNBELIEVABLE!!!! two huge sets i caught came from way out in the deep blue water, i turned around, paddled my hardest into the strong off shore winds, took off, and pulled right into the big barrel! i came out of both! UNBELIEVABLE!!!! good to see other of my friends like Nick Mita, Ronnie Yamada, Teppei Tajima, Kaylen, Kyle, and some of the other boys getting barreled too. i was super stoked to be a part of this surf session that will go down in the history of south shore surfing. UNBELIEVABLE!!!! as i was drinking my water in my car, i took this lineup shot of big rights. this was a medium size wave so think of double this and getting barreled. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
tomorrow, same thing! get barreled! UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
more photos coming soon!
but first, i’m going to eat some peking duck and lobster. have a wonderful evening!