Sunset time!

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From Diamond Head.
Enjoy!

Today's lunch

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Katsu Curry Plate! Umai!!!

Japanese Pro Wave of the Day!

yesterday’s pipeline was nothing close to perfect. in fact, a lot of surfers checked it and didn’t even paddle out. it was big, ugly, and only a few good ones. so getting a really good wave deserves a pat on the back. i’ll pat japanese surfer Kaisa Kawamura on the back for paddling out there, waiting, and catching this gem. even thought he makes it look so easy, let me say that it wasn’t easy yesterday. i was actually pretty dangerous. check out this sick sequence. good job Kaisa!
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