even though i stress to everybody about stepping on “uni” or “wana” or “sea urchin,” it sometimes happens to me. no, i don’t step on the reef. and no, i don’t touch the reef. but on some low tide days, my hand scrapes the reef when i’m paddling. and this time, i happened to scrape a sea urchin. itai!!!!!

wanted to say hello to my surf buddies Maxim and Kanta! the 2 cutest surf kids!

Holli on the right and Makisan on the left. I haven’t seen my long time friend Holli in such a long time. but even though we don’t see each other, i can still feel her so much in my life. she’s been there through my good times in life, and my bad times, and my terrible times. and she’s still in my life so that’s how i know she’s my golden friend. hey Holli, we need to get a drink, catch up on times, laugh, cry, and smile. see you soon.

i’ve been hearing the big news that the new WE ARE ONE MARKET in kitakami is OPEN!!!! OMG! i want to congratulate Naomi-san, her family, her staff, and everybody that contributed to the huge project. and to all the people in Kitakami “WE ARE ONE!” see you this year!!!

Helicopter vs. Village. Brazil.
Good morning 6:30am.
North: 2-3′ and perfect offshore.
South: Head high and bumpy junky onshore.
Wind: South @ 15-20mph.
Weather: Cloudy becoming heavy rain.
Plan: Rain Surf!
Have a wonderful day!

good evening. what a long day. going down to the beach at 7am and freezing cold. spent a few hours in the water, then followed by 4 hours in the classroom. learning new lifesaving techniques and learning how to save peoples lives. and i’m learning from the best so i’m super lucky. i hope i don’t have to use these skills but if that time comes, i’m ready. still have more hours to get my certification that will be good for the next 2 years.

and look what’s happening for the next 5 days. rain, rain, and rain. i love it!

today was our good friend Dwayne Scharsch’s funeral. surfers from all over the island met at magic island to do the paddle out at bowls. as everybody entered the water, i was amazed on how many people where there. Dwayne had so many family, friends, and loved ones. it was so sad sitting in the ocean watching his wife scatter his ashes at bowls. i have only good memories of Dwayne and i still feel that he got a second chance in life and did what he loved to do, surfing. i went to the tent after to write a memo for Dwayne, and there was this big picture hanging in a frame. the same picture i took at bowls the day he came back after being in a coma for weeks. this was his first day in the water since he drowned at sandy beach and i remember how happy he was after every wave he caught. that day will and this photo is my great memory of a great father, family man, surfer, and friend. goodbye Dwayne.