here in hawaii, it amazes me how our government plans construction, road repairs, and other things that causes heavy traffic. as i sit in my car stuck in traffic and not moving, i just wonder to myself if i would do it differently if i was the governor. i guess i learn a lot by traveling to a lot of countries and watching how they do things. for example, in japan, they do that kind of things at night. why not in hawaii people ask? i really don’t know.

so i leave the north shore yesterday and like usual, i check the traffic on my phone. the traffic was really backed up for miles and miles. so i just take a deep breath, think, and go down the side roads. look at all the traffic around me while i’m driving freely down king street. i took all back roads and didn’t get stuck in any traffic. lucky!
anyway, it is a beautiful saturday morning. while the waves are perfect on the north shore and everybody is getting barreled, i have other obligations to take care of. i’m taking my yearly CPR course, lifeguard rescue course, and first aid course. it’s a requirement for the job i do and even if it wasn’t, i’d take the courses anyway. i spend so much time in the ocean and if something goes bad, i want to be able to help. i’ll be trained by the best and i hope to learn more and more. safety is and will always be my top priority. so as you all get barreled today, i’ll be learning how to save lives. if it was for any other reason, i’d be stressing because the barrel is where i want to be. but for today, i can pass.
also, this afternoon is our dear friend Dwayne Scharsch’s memorial paddle out at bowls. we will all meet at magic island at 2pm. hope to see you there!

Freezing German Surfers.
Good morning 5:45am
North shore 2-4′ and perfect.
South shore waist high, maybe chest high at Ala Moana. Bigger and better at Diamond Head.
Best spot on North is everywhere!
Best spot on South is Diamond Head.
Wind is light becoming variable. Onshore everywhere by 11am.
Weather is sunny/cloudy today becoming heavy rain on Sunday and Monday.
Plan: 7am-1pm lifeguard training course and CPR course.
2pm Dwayne Scharsch Memorial Paddle out at Magic Island.

i get up at 4:30am, drink some kombucha, eat some cereal, put on my jacket, load up my boards, put on the heater, and drive out to the north shore. while most of the island is sleeping, i’m buzzing! feeling high, feeling healthy, feeling fresh, and feeling like it’s going to be a good day. i pull up, it’s pitch dark, i smell the salt in the air, i heard the pounding waves, and it’s time to paddle out. i get some good waves, get barreled, and i’m on the beach my 9am feeling like i had one of the best days of my life. all the rest after that is just a bonus! i take a warm shower, take out my camera, and shoot the japanese surf session. check it out.

GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOGGER SHIMPEI HORIGUCHI has a new look. i didn’t even recognize him with his new mustache. a great surfer, cool guy, and funny boy. great package.

Grace rider x Dove rider. nice left at off-the-wall.

4D bottom turn.

Japanese superstar Mar Ohno going BIG! check out japanese photographer Kamio getting the sick fisheye photo! great teamwork!

Mason Ho on one of the best waves of the day. people ask me what i mean by “EPIC.” just look at this photo because this waves is “EPIC!!!” got it?

i love soul surfing.

under the lip at off the wall?

yes, bye bye surfboard! it’s like taking a $500 bill and ripping it in half. ouch!
more photos coming tomorrow soon. i have to eat dinner and sleep early because i have my important lifeguard and CPR training course tomorrow all day. ganbaruzo!