if you don’t surf, you won’t really know what i’m going to talk about now. surfing is not just about going out and catching a wave. there are rules, there are locals, and there is respect in every lineup around the world. some easy, some hard, and some untouchable. i’ve surfed heavy localized spots around the world and the one thing i learned is “be alert, and be respective.” know your surroundings, know the pecking order, know who’s good, know who’s not, know who fights, know who doesn’t, and know everything you possibly can to avoid trouble. from people getting run over, to people getting beaten up, it happens everywhere around the world. i’ve seen some fights at practically every surf spot on this island, along with surf spots in japan and indonesia. there is a local mannerism everywhere you surf and if you don’t know it, it’s best to stay out of the water. all said, let me introduce you to the heaviest localized surf spot in the world, BACKDOOR/PIPELINE! one mistake could lead you on the beach bleeding, or in the hospital. iv’e seen both happen before.
if you’re local, it’s already hard. but if you’re a foreigner, it’s even harder.

yesterday, i was surfing for a while and when i looked around in the lineup, i seen japanese pro kid surfer Gai Sato. i was watching him and was hoping he caught a wave in the heavily localized lineup. see him in the black/blue wetsuit? after i went in, i grabbed my camera to try to shoot one of his waves. i waited for over an hour and he didn’t catch anything. he tried but the locals didn’t let any wave go unridden.

then i see his golden chance. he paddles, and couldn’t get into the wave. most spectators would be disappointed, but not me. even if Gai didn’t catch a wave all day, i wouldn’t put this kid down. just to be out there in the most localized lineup in the world is something. most pro surfers hide, most pro surfers don’t even want to paddle out. but Gai sitting out there and putting in his time means a lot. one of these days, he will get a huge long barrel. and i hope i’m there to capture it! until then, i’m sure he will be out there trying and trying. his time will come! Go-Gai!

Abunai means Dangerous! Abunai!
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore: 2-3′ and fun. Little windier than yesterday. Rocky Point probably best.
South shore: Small and windy. Bowls knee high with Diamond Head a little bigger.
Party cloudy morning becoming sunny all day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

good evening. wow, woke up 4:45am and drove out to the north shore. walking down the sand and paddling out was pretty nerve racking but i wasn’t alone. a lot of the local boys out there felt the same after they caught their first wave. it’s like breaking the ice. after i caught my first wave, i felt like my winter season has begun. surfed, shot photos, and drove back to town for 2 more sessions. a long day, but i’m a pretty happy sunburnt guy.

today felt like january. i’ve never seen these kind of conditions in october before. the waves were perfect!!!

today was locals only. t.j barron on a set at off the wall. i’d say solid 6′ hawaiian scale.

joel centaio the happy guy. always smiling and always surfing good.

elai olsen got the wave of the day. super long tube at backdoor.

today was the first good day on the north shore. not enough waves for everybody so there was a lot of dropping in. i’d hate to be the guy behind.

i just trip out on the lack of respect these days. if you have some sense of surfing history, ross williams is a legend. a top 16 world pro surfer who lives on the north shore has not right to be dropped in on. this is actually pretty sad because ross is one of the nicest locals on earth.

these are january to march conditions. but this is only october. get ready for a great winter!

randall paulson got the best pipe waves today. good to see him surfing from bowls to pipe!

yes, my 4 nephews were all out this morning and it couldn’t have been a better feeling. this is micah moniz on a pipe left.

after i surfed, i hung out at the billabong house. my sister made me great banana pancakes, my nephew served me, and i couldn’t have been happier. this is seth moniz, the next surfing stud!
after surfing the north shore, i drove back into town and surfed 2x. even thought the waves were much smaller, i had more fun. the laughs, the sun, the fun, and the memories today will last a lifetime. a long day, a great massage, an awesome dinner, and i’m going to bed now. good night and a gallery should be up on go-naminori.com soon. sweet dreams.