Thursday September18日 2025年

The Wild One, Mental Wai? Free Parking

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pulled these photos off kairi’s go-naminori blog. we were in shikoku sharing an umbrella and laughs. gosh, i love this kid.
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i’m glad he didn’t drop my brand new lens.
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and to think i had to push kairi and reika into waves. now they are winning contests! unreal!
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been searching for a boat for our next year mentawai trip. found a few but just have to finish up the negotiations. i also found this photo and i wouldn’t mind riding a wave like this next year. and i think i know where this is.
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another mentawai wave. from beginner to expert to crazy! i love it all!
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i know so many people that got their cars towed away from the bowls parking lot. it’s pretty confusing if you’re japanese. so here it is. free or pay? i like free.

Coming up?

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7:45am.
Looks like the waves are coming up.
Diamond Head 3′ and nice.
Go-Naminori!

September 12, 2012 Hawaii Surf Report


Suicide? Please don’t do it!
Good morning 6:30am.
Small waves continue.
Bowls waist high with 15 surfers out.
Rockpiles waist high with 12 surfers out.
Waikiki knee high with 40 surfers out.
Diamond Head biggest with chest high sets.
Where are the waves? Surfers in Hawaii are hungry!!!
Wind trades at 15mph.
Sunny sky.
Surf all day!
Have a wonderful day!!!