The Forgotten Session?

time is flying by so fast. so many days, so many waves, and so many photos. i just took a peak into my iphoto and seen some photos i forgot downloading. this was day 4 of 4 excellent waves in japan. it was hot, it was humid, and the waves were going off! it’s unbelievable how good it was and no waves went to waste. i have a full gallery but have to ask permission before i post it. i want to surf there again and don’t want to cause any kind of trouble. but for now, here is a sneak peak of typhoon 10.
IMG_1485 copy
for the past 10 years, i’ve never seen toda-san so lean. and for the past 10 years, i’ve never seen toda-san throw this much spray before. this is power, this is speed, and this is the new lightweight toda-san! photo by me.
IMG_1583 copy
matsu is kind of like me in a way. he’s patient, watches the waves carefully, and chooses the best time to be in the water. he paddles out, catches the best waves, and paddles back in with a big smile on his face. this session, he was in the water for 20 minutes and caught 4 perfect open left handers. very efficient surfing! photo by toda-san.
IMG_1595 copy
and yes, right or left, i like to get barreled. after surfing perfect rights for 3 days straight, it was refreshing to get barreled backside. check out the river pebbles in the front. cool yeah? now imagine wiping out and hundred of these cool rocks are flying around in every direction. it’s just a matter of time one will hit you. you can either get a bump, get stitches, or knock out. it’s the risks of surfing that makes it exciting for me. the more dangerous, the more exciting. surf your dream everybody! photo by matsu? or toda-san? either way, it doesn’t matter because We Are One!

August 20, 2012 Hawaii Surf Report


Please don’t overdo it!
Good morning 6:10am.
Bowls waist/chest high. 7 surfers out. Clean.
Kaisers waist/chest high. 8 surfers out. Clean.
Waikiki knee high. Clean.
Diamond head chest high. Windy.
Wind 20mph.
Weather cloudy becoming sunny.
Plan: Shopping/Packing/Surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Old Fiat vs. New Fiat

good evening, had a super cool morning session today. woke up, saw some little waves, saw the crowd everywhere so drove to my secret spot and guess what? nobody!!! i surfed all alone on a sunny summer sunday! score! it felt good and i’m thinking of going there again tomorrow morning. got to texts from friends in japan saying there is a new typhoon? really? wow, i guess i better get my ticket! going surfing!
spent a few days looking around for a car. there are so many new cars out there that i’m getting sidetracked. i know what i want, but when i see something new or old, i want it all! haha.
photo 12
take this classic fiat for example. if this was for sale, i would have bought it, put some surf racks on it, and this would be my new ride.
photo 11
they did a great job restoring this car out of the 70’s.
photo 15
i miss the simple things about cars. easy to understand, and easy to fix. now days, the cars electronic system is smarter than people. scary.
photo 13
i bet you can’t beat the gas mileage on these things.
photo
cool license plate too.
photo 24
i really would like this car for my collection.
Screen shot 2012-08-20 at 2.04.32 AM
i’ve been hearing a lot about the new fiats. i never paid too much attention to it because fiats are from italy and if it breaks, good luck in getting parts. but guess what? the new fiats are made by chrysler in america!!!! so i took one for a test drive and liked it. compared to a mini cooper? cheaper and feels like more space in the inside. you can get a brand new one for $17,000.
photo 4
from the back.
photo 1
from the front.
photo 3
this color was my favorite.
photo 2
don’t be surprised if you see me driving one of these anytime soon. haha.