another long day in the water. surfed 2 rounds and i can’t believe how my skin is holding up. super burnt!!!! but the cool water and cool tradewinds are keep my mind in peace. the waves were chest high and super fun. morning sickness in the morning, but perfect in the afternoon. super happy to be able to surf every single day. don’t know what i’d be doing without the ocean. thank you mother nature!!!

Yutaro started surfing 2 years ago. he has super good balance, super good paddling energy, and lots of motivation. a very smart kid that speaks english, had lots of common sense, and will make it big in this world. hey Yutaro, had super fun surfing with you this morning. hope to see you in the water again! enjoy hawaii.

Yutaro wanted to eat something healthy? straight to my favorite vietnam pho on this island. super good!

i’m going to possible post a gallery of photos tomorrow if i have the time tonight after dinner. here is a sneak peak. JPSA grand champ yujiro! i knew this grom since he was 10 years old. good to see him ripping!

takami-san going down the line on a good right at a river mouth. i’ve known takami-san for over 20 years. such a nice person!

my 2 brothers! toda-san and matchi. decades of friendship between the 3 of us.

even on the small days, the waves in shikoku are perfect. clean water, warm, and lots of off the lips!

a good river mouth has both a right and a left. this is a good river mouth. this is stewart surfboard boss with the big bottom turn!

Thank you Kaoru-san!

surfing in japan is like going on a surf trip. i like it because you just don’t know what you will encounter. my last trip to japan was probably the busiest 3 days in my surfing career. to surf 3 river mouths in 3 days in 3 prefectures with perfect conditions is unheard of. things couldn’t have worked out any better. great surf mates, great forecast, and great barrels. i still want to apologize to everybody about my selfishness. i just wanted to be at the right place at the right time and i did anything to make it happen. we scored, we have the photos, and we will never forget our 3 day road trip that covered half of japan. check out my hideaway!

i can’t even explain how hot it was that day. and i can’t even explain how hot the sand was too. it’ surprising none of us passed out. see all the debris? that’s not from the tsunami. that’s from the rain that happened last month. just piles and piles of debris on the beach. you have to do what you have to do to keep cool.

between matsu, toda-san, tomoyuki-san, and i, i think we took over 3000 photos. i’m too busy to post them but i promise you i will. this is a little small perfect left at another secret river mouth. the waves got 3x bigger after this so we all went surfing!

and last, speaking of debris, can you believe that there are full houses and stuff still floating around in the pacific ocean? that’s pretty crazy.
anyway, planning another typhoon chasing the end of this month. can my friends let me know the scoops? i hope i get more relax time and more time to spend with my friends. just so much happening and so much to talk about. but first, gotta get back to work. have a great day!