apple introduced the new iPhone 5 yesterday. the amazing thing about the whole story is how apple kept it a secret. every time they develop a new product, nobody in the world knows. nobody leaks information to the media, and somehow, apple does a great job in keeping a secret. how do they do that? i bet there are about a million people in china that assembled the new iPhone 5 and nobody leaked any information out to the media? how the heck did apple control that? what an amazing company! i wonder what they are working on next?

when ever i teach surfing to people, i always stress the importance of using the right equipment. i have over 30 surfboards for a reason. each one is designed for different waves and conditions. if i take the wrong board out in the wrong surf, things can go wrong. take this day at backdoor for example. i thought the waves were going to be small so i took out my small board. then the waves started getting bigger so i thought i should go in to get a longer board. ahh. too much hassle so i just use my short board on big waves. here comes a set, i paddle hard, take off, and i knew i was too late. a longer board would have placed me perfectly into the barrel, but instead, my short board got stuck in the lip and all i could do was jump and hope i don’t hit the reef. lucky, nothing happened to me as my friend Neal Miyake took this photo. but hey, i enjoyed the jump. wiping out is good. why? because it wakes you up and makes you realize that the ocean is much stronger than man. so respect it!

DH head high and windy.
Ala Moana better.

What an awesome photo! Nature!
Good morning 6am.
Diamond Head: Head high and windy. Windsurfing day!
Waikiki: Knee/waist high and crowded.
Bowls: Waist/chest high and clean. 6 surfers out.
Wind: Tradewinds at 15-25mph.
Weather: Sunny.
Forecast: 5′ South Swell on Sunday.
Plan: Surf, eat, surf, eat, sleep.
Have a wonderful day!