OMG! I surfed 3 rounds from early morning until now. Maybe 6 hours.
It’s sunset time and maybe a short nap.
Backdoor/Pipeline photos coming soon.
Chotto matte ne.
I have to eat dinner now. So Hungry!!!
Appreciate your job!
Good morning 5am.
Now is dark.
My surf report guess:
North shore 4-6′ and perfect. Best spot is Backdoor.
South shore 1-1.5′ and perfect. Best spot is Diamond Head.
No wind.
I’m going Surfing! Happy day!