the billabong house is a cool place to hang out. this is the next generation of kids from around the world coming to hawaii to make their name. the pro’s, the photographers, the writers, the bosses, and the whole surfing world is focused on the beach that fronts the billabong house. this is the mecca of surfing.

when i was there, somebody lost the key for the surfboard room so none of the boys could surf. all their boards locked in the room while pipeline/backdoor/off the wall was super perfect. you could just see the frustration in the kids faces.

then once coach rainos bought the key, he opened the door, the kids grabbed their boards, and showed everybody why they are some of the best surfers of the world. gosh, these kids surf so good!

cool house on the beach. probably 4 million dollars or so. i sit there taking photos thinking to myself “someday i want a go-naminori house like this.” still dreaming big!

3-4′ and fun wave!

World Craziest Bus Ride! I want to go there!!!! Dangerous, exciting, and beautiful!
Good morning 6am.
O’Neill Cold Water in Santa Cruz ON NOW!
HIC Sunset Pro ON today!
North shore still Big!
Laniakea looking good at 6′. Pipe small with wrong direction swell.
North swell so Sunset Beach and Laniakea biggest spot.
South shore knee/waist high. Diamond Head best.
Wind is light now becoming Tradewinds later today. Strong tradwinds from tomorrow.
Nice conditions everywhere.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!