Sunday September14日 2025年

Shikoku Gallery: July 31, 2012


ok, i finally downloaded all my photos from the japan trip. it seemed so long ago as time has been flying by. i jumped into the car heading to shikoku. we pulled up in the afternoon as the typhoon swell was filling in. it was head high and perfect. i caught only a few waves because i knew the next day was going to be the best and wanted to save my energy. anyway, check out the gallery from july 31, 2012. more typhoon 9 and 10 galleries coming soon!
IMG_0161 copy
IMG_0160 copy
IMG_0157 copy
IMG_0156 copy
IMG_0150 copy
IMG_0149 copy
IMG_0144 copy
IMG_0137 copy
IMG_0136 copy
IMG_0129 copy
IMG_0128 copy
IMG_0124 copy
IMG_0123 copy
IMG_0119 copy
IMG_0118 copy
IMG_0117 copy
IMG_0114 copy
IMG_0105 copy
IMG_0104 copy
IMG_0102 copy
IMG_0100 copy
IMG_0099 copy
IMG_0095 copy
IMG_0094 copy
IMG_0093 copy
IMG_0092 copy
IMG_0084 copy
IMG_0083 copy
IMG_0082 copy
IMG_0079 copy
IMG_0078 copy
IMG_0077 copy
IMG_0070 copy
IMG_0057 copy
IMG_0055 copy
IMG_0051 copy
IMG_0050 copy
IMG_0049 copy
IMG_0048 copy
IMG_0045 copy
IMG_0183 copy
IMG_0182 copy
IMG_0177 copy
IMG_0176 copy
IMG_0173 copy
IMG_0172 copy
IMG_0169 copy
IMG_0166 copy
IMG_0164 copy
IMG_0162 copy
IMG_0145 copy
IMG_0032 copy
IMG_0036 copy
IMG_0040 copy
IMG_0042 copy
IMG_0044 copy

August 14, 2012 Hawaii Surf Report


Surf History: Born and raised in Hawaii! Awesome photo.
Good morning 5:50am.
South little bigger than yesterday.
Yesterday flat. Today knee high.
Biggest is Diamond Head.
Windy @ 20-25mph.
Cloudy morning, sunny afternoon.
Plan to surf 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

Power Breakfast/Power Dive!

woke up at 5:30am. checked the waves. flat! gym? swim? surf? yoga? ummmm… opps, i totally forgot i have a boat??? yeah, i have a boat!! freedive!!!! today couldn’t have been any more perfect for a quick dive in town.
photo 1
scooped in some rice, mixed some natto over, and cracked a raw egg. this is my power breakfast and i can eat this 365 days out of the year. and when i’m done, i’m a happy guy that’s going to have a happy day.
photo 2
like i said, it couldn’t have been a better day. called up a friend, he called his works and said he was sick, took the day off, and we were on it! this is hawaiian style. if the waves are good, nobody goes to work. and when the conditions are perfect for diving, divers don’t go to work either. haha.
photo 3
it’s been a while since i caught a tako. i use to have 10 or so in my freezer, now i have only this one. the next time i feel like eating it, i will. i actually had to dive down 6 times to get this guy. he kept on hiding from me in the hole and i finally grabbed him. lucky a eel didn’t bite my hand.
photo 4
uhu’s or “parrot fish” are the gold in hawaii. stuff it, bake it, and eat it. hawaiian style! i looked at my watch at 2pm and seen that i already did 59 dives. what? no wonder i was so tired, and at the same time, feeling so relaxed. the deepest i went today was 44′ or 13 meters, and held my breath for an average of 1:48 minutes. i felt good, fresh, and comfortable laying on the bottom of the sea. too bad there isn’t much fish anymore but we always manage to bring back dinner.
my boat is running so good! my body too. i’ve been exercising everyday either by paddling, pullups, pushups, dumbells, yoga, stretching, surfing, or laughing. i haven’t felt this fit in my whole life!
anyway, better get going to dinner. have a wonderful evening!
opps, just checked the typhoon forecast. not too good for next week. i’m planning to leave hawaii on august 19th anyway to surf some perfect waves. i’ll go anywhere in the world so just let me know! thanks.
last, did you see the meteor shower last night? i looked up and seen 2 falling stars. tonight is the last night so don’t miss it. i made 2 wishes and i hope they will come true!!!