Rainy Season, Philippines 2012
Good morning 6:10am.
Small waves and very low tide.
Waikiki flat/knee high. Already 30 surfers out like buoys.
Bowls flat/knee high. 10 surfers out and hardly any waves.
Diamond Head best at chest high. DH is never flat. Side winds.
Wind is strong 15-25mph trades.
Weather is another perfect day.
Plan is to Go-Naminori!
Have a wonderful day!

Hey Josh, Thank you for sending me this amazing photo! 
I wish I was there! 
Save some waves for me.
See you next month.
Aloha

i meet the coolest people everyday. take Osamu-san for example. Osamu-san just turned 50 years old and has been surfing for the past 20 years. he is so energetic and every time he takes off, i can see the excitement in his eyes. and when he kicks out, the pure satisfaction. just pure stoke in every wave. he usually surfs queen’s but today, we surfed somewhere else. perfect little long rights with a few surfers out. i was stoked just watching Osamu-san surf and was thinking to myself “i hope i’m that stoked to be surfing when i turn 50 years old.” we were super hungry so had the best mexican in hawaii! i was so full after and when i went surfing again, my stomach felt like it was going to blow up!!! hey Osamu-san, Happy Birthday! enjoy the rest of your time in hawaii!

i was always curious how some creatures are born. so the only way to find out was to look into the mothers womb. check out this baby dolphin! omg! looks so peaceful and happy. not a safer place in the world.

and check out this elephant! omg! isn’t this super cool? i wish i had a photo of myself when i was in my mom’s stomach. but back then there wasn’t this kind of technology. we just popped out and our mothers had to take us the way we came out. i still think the doctor dropped me on my head when i was born because i was a really crazy kid. the more my childhood memories come back, the more i trip out on myself. i’m just glad i found surfing. it kept me out of trouble, kept me healthy, and kept my mind off all the negative energy in this world.
anyway, tonight is the last night of the meteor shower. i seen 2 falling stars 2 nights ago, last night was too cloudy. tonight i’ll be looking out my window looking for just one more shooting star because i have one more wish!