waves fun, weathers great, and lots of aloha. i’m so happy to be back home!!!! been busy but i love every minute. the endless summer continues.
if my grandparents didn’t talk to me about Mt. Fuji every sunday for half my life, i wouldn’t be so amazed by it. to keep on hearing about their wonderful experience climbing to the top, Mt. Fuji always had a place in my heart. so every chance i get, i just stare and think about my grandparents. it’s a really happy moment for me and i’m sure my grandma is looking down on me enjoying the view too. it’s our magic mountain.
every time i come back to hawaii, i see this sign. and every time i see this sign, i think to myself that they should change it. welcome to the united states? what about “WELCOME TO HAWAII.” sounds better yeah? but anyway, it’s always good to be back home. i love hawaii. opps, i mean, i love the united states.
what was today? tuesday! straight to Andy’s for lunch. my special mushroom chicken plate! love every bite of it.
i had a super fun 3 hour surf session with Kanehara-san today. she came straight off the airplane from japan. i picked her up from her hotel shortly after and we paddled out for an amazing session. just a few surfers and we had a big space all to ourselves. i’m sure she caught 10 of the longest waves of her life today. i got my magic Fat Bat made by TSSC that will give anybody the ride of their life. that board works so good and i’m stoked to share it with everybody. Kanehara-san, i enjoyed our session and shave ice today. you surfed really well and i’m surprised how much energy you have. keep on surfing and keep on smiling. hope you enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii. and tell your sisters i said hello!
Welcome to U.S? Mushroom? Fatbat?
Sunset time!
Surf 3 hours. Eat shave ice. Watch sunset.
Lovely day!
North Shore Tiger Shark!
the first time i went to the philippines, we visited this local village on sunday. the filipino sport? cockfighting! it was real, it was live, and it was a great experience. the chickens fought, the loser died, then got cooked on the side for pupu’s. that’s pure culture! in hawaii, it’s illegal. if you get caught fighting chickens, you will go to jail. and if you eat them, you will get sick because they pump steroids and all kinds of chemicals into the fighting chickens here.
scary guy? remember, i’m always watching you! haha. if you go hiking in the mountains in hawaii, don’t scream if you see me. i promise i won’t shoot you. haha.
*check out this encounter with a huge tiger shark on the north shore last month. these guys are super good spear divers and if you watch how they deal with the curious shark, you might learn something. i’ve been in situations like this and it gets your blood pumping. they important thing is not to panic and swim away. every time i see a shark, it reminds me of hayato’s first shark experience about 8 years ago. i haven’t seen him swim so fast before. haha. that shark actually swam up fast to him and almost got him. i was still in the water watching the whole thing. scared, but laughing so loud. if any of these guys in the video panicked and swam away, the shark would probably go after him. that was perfect buddy defense diving. always keep an eye on the predator and get back to the boat asap! gosh, i miss diving!
check it out and learn. i hope my nephews don’t watch this because they will probably quit surfing the north shore. haha.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4K1XVALKNn0&feature=plcp[/youtube]
