KODOMOGENKI in Akita: "SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL"

good evening. what a nice day today. surfed 2 rounds and i don’t remember the last time i’ve been this sunburned. my skin can’t get any darker and my friends can’t see me in the dark anymore. i have to wear bright clothes or i will get hit by a car. the weather has been perfect. super sunny, super cool tradewinds, and passing showers to make the brightest rainbows. being outdoor all day long, i get to see so much paradise.
i heard they had a 17 mile or 28 kilometer paddle race from makapuu to waikiki today. i’m so jealous!!! yes, i would have loved to enter it but i’m just to busy. then after thinking about it, i’d rather give myself a bigger challenge. so today, i decided that within this year, i will paddle from makapuu to waikiki alone. no friends, no escort boat, or no nothing. i have no idea how long it will take but i’m going for it. then if i complete that safely, i will paddle the molokai channel. i think from molokai to oahu is 38 miles or 61 kilometers. maybe go dive molokai in the day, sleep over on the boat, then paddle back the next morning. for that one, yes, i need an escort boat. one miscalculation in the current, and i’m lost at sea. so right there, it took me a couple of days to figure out another challenge for myself. if you haven’t done anything crazy, you should challenge yourself too. but for right now, i’m going to rub aloe into my burnt skin, put cucumbers on my eyes, and fall asleep because i’ll be surfing 2 long rounds everyday for the next 17 days. see you in the water!

i want to thank Masato-san from Akita for sending me this information of a wonderful event coming up. KODOMOGENKI in Akita is happening july 21-22 and i’m sure it’s going to be a awesome event. anything for the kids is what it’s all about. if you want help or participate, click the link below for more information. thank you Masato-san and please tell K’surf Sugimoto-san i said hello! keep on surfing!
*CLICK HERE FOR KODOMOGENKI “SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL” WEBSITE.

Surf/eat/surf/eat

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Surf round one: 3 hours with Toyama’s Ushijima-san.
Eat Pho
Surf again!
Good waves.
Good fun.

Kua'Aina Hamburger/Mexico/Hokkaido/Soul Surfer

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it’s been a while since i ate a Kua’Aina avocado burger. i didn’t realize how dam big it is! i’d say one of the biggest hamburgers in the world.
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do you actually think you can bite this whole burger? no way!
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Matsuoka-san is from Hokkaido and surfed for her first time at Puerto Escondido, Mexico. that’s where i almost drowned 10 years ago. second time in chigasaki. today was her third time and she did really good. super strong, super happy, and super smiling! i had a great day with her!
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speaking about great days, this day was one of the happiest days in my life. i was on a secluded sand island in the middle of the maldives. white sand beach, emerald blue water, and just paradise. what more could you ask for?
and last, i’ve had a lot of comments about this documentary of kelia moniz. i can’t tell you how proud i am of this girl. just so pure with a great heart. i don’t know anybody else in the world that could represent Roxy as good as she’s doing now. my little niece is growing up too fast. if i were a little surfer girl growing up anywhere in this world, i would want to be like Kelia Moniz. watch this again and you’ll know why.
[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/43370645[/vimeo]