the other day we dove was a special rare day. for the past year, it seems like we haven’t had too many variable, or no wind days. these are the best surfing and diving days and sometimes it’s hard to choose what do to. but this time since it’s been a long time, i chose diving. just going down into the deep blue, then coming back up to the green mountains, what more could you ask for? from nature to nature with nobody around. for surfing, you have to deal with all the aggressive people in the water, diving, it’s just you and the ocean. that’s why i think free diving is such a good balance. it keeps my mind and soul calm. i can’t wait to go again!

for all of you who don’t know, the water in fukushima is contaminated with radiation so surfers are not allowed to go into the water. surfers have to drive a few hours up or down the coast to get in a surf session and we have no clue on how long this will continue. so everyday i jump into the ocean, i always appreciate what we have here in hawaii. and when somebody from fukushima comes to hawaii to surf, i do my best to make it the greatest surf experience for them. this day, Kurosawa-san from Iwaki City came to hawaii for the first time to surf.

i took him to bowls and we scored. the waves were so good, clean, and so long! a couple of my local surfer friends were out that day and gave Kurosawa-san so many good sets. i was so happy to see him catch so many good waves and smiling all day.
Kurosawa-san,
I had a great time surfing with you.
Hope you got to refresh yourself in Hawaii.
Keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
Aloha.

last, i didn’t know they made silicone for butts? or does she have 2 watermelons in her pants? haha.

HI! Check out my Sand Dollar Shells!
6:45am Surf report.
North: Flat.
South: Waist high. Clean at Ala Moana, windy at Diamond Head.
Tradwinds @ 15-25mph.
Sunny skies.
Beautiful day.
Going Surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

it’s so fun taking newlywed couples surfing for their first time. Ma-kun and Riyu-san got married the other day on the island of Hawaii. then came to Oahu to surf. we started from the beginning and had such a great time! such a lovely couple with a great life ahead of them. wish you both the best future!

after surfing, we went sightseeing. when i got out of my car at tantalus, my boards looked like they were going to fall off. no wonder everybody was looking at me weird. we were laughing. this happens all the time and doesn’t bother me at all. i know i should strap the boards on better but that’s the lazy side of me. if one strap works, then let it be. just don’t drive too close to me. haha.

Da-Spot is my favorite local food restaurant recently. been going there a lot and everybody loves it. Ma-kun and i ordered the Basil Parmesan Chicken. so good!

Riyu-san ordered the Thai Chicken Curry. looked good too.
today was another beautiful day. the waves were good, the weather was good, and my afternoon nap was good. i can’t believe i’m leaving again next week on another trip. my life is going by way too fast!!! going to sleep early and surfing early tomorrow. have a great evening.