the right chicks name is Pepper, the left chicks name is Salt.
meet Salt and Pepper!
make me some fresh eggs chicks!
today the waves were super fun. went surfing at bowls with Akudo-san.
Akudo-san has a cool shop in ebisu, tokyo called Standard California. a
super nice surfer with great taste in clothes and style. his shop is
awesome with super cool staff!
guess who was surfing out at bowls this morning? Johnny Boy Gomes. yeah,
if you don’t know JBG, he’s one of the heaviest locals in hawaiian
surfing history. won the Pipeline Masters one year, and people from all
over the world respect his power surfing. also one of the scariest guys
if you don’t know him, but if you do know him, the coolest guy in the
world. i had a great time talking and surfing with him for 2 hours in
the lineup. talked about surfing shikoku, talked about the 80’s, and
talked about his comeback. he was ripping today and was looking pretty
lean. i’m super stoked to see him today in the water.
going to sleep. had a long day today and tomorrow will be another long
day in the ocean. i’m having a super fun time and the more i think about
japan/bali/mentawai next week, i’m getting more and more excited. but
still have lots of things to do and lots of waves to ride before that.
see you in the water.

With Akudo-san!
Good waves!

what a crazy expensive day yesterday. first dive, i went to check an ulua house or GT hole. i see 2 medium/big size ulua’s in there. it was only 20′ deep so i took my time on the bottom waiting for them. finally one turned and came my way. i line up my gun to his head, i take the shot, and 2 seconds later, i feel my shaft with nothing on. what? i know i speared it good, but something was weird. my spear shaft broke!!! wow, the power of the fish. oh well.
then we go to kyle’s secret blue hole. i call it blue hole because there is a huge hole in the reef. down to the reef is 40′ (12M), then the deep blue hole goes down to about 90′ (28M). we pull up, i see 20 or so big GT’s swimming in the hole. kyle went in the front of the hole, i went down the back. we dropped together into the hole and when i was down about 50′ (15M), i seen about 30 huge GT’s with 2 or 3 giant giant GT’s in the group. i point my gun, look at the monster swimming toward me, i wait, think, wait, think, and decided not to take the shot. i knew that it would either pull me down deeper and i die, or i lose my gun, or break my last shaft and can’t dive for the rest of the day. yeah, i was thinking that much down there and as i swam up, i see kyle fighting a huge 100’+ (45Kilo) holding on for his life. the fish takes all the line from his reel and snaps! lost fish, lost shaft, lost soul. for me, just seeing the giant fish swimming around in the deep blue hole was amazing. i wish i had my camera with me. for sure, we’re going back again!

on the left is me holding my snapped shaft. i’m out $50. kyle on the right holding a GT that supposed to be his. haha. his shaft and line will cost him $100. the funny thing is that we’ve both been through this many of times. now instead of taking 1 gun to mentawai, i’m taking 2 guns and 4 shafts.
kyle, i’ll probably see you at maui sporting goods today getting new gear. haha.