yesterday would be considered a flat day of surf for hawaii standards. the reason is that nobody here knows what flat is unless you traveled to places that are flat. flat means no waves, flat means unridable. yesterday wasn’t flat. chest high and perfect to be exact.

Tanaka-san surfing into diamond head. cool photos kenny shot.

ouch! uni? sea urchin in the foot? itai!

there were so many waves that after both of my guys went on sets, then i was all alone on the outside as perfect waves came to me. did i go? of course!!!! after i caught about 10 waves, i was paddling out thinking to myself “nobody in the whole world has a better job than i do. and if somebody does, i’m happy for you!” surf your dream!

Oily chili plate with too much mayonnaise macaroni salad.
Unhealthy but taste great!

New Fashion: Sunburn Tattoos. Cool!
Good morning 6:30am surf report.
Small waves again.
Bowls: Knee high, maybe chest high sets later. 6 surfers out.
Diamond Head: Chest high and fun yesterday. Morning sickness but getting
better later.
Waikiki: Knee high and crowded. Lot’s of tourists. About 30 surfers now.
Wind: Tradewinds at 15-25mph.
Weather: Perfect SUNNY!
Have a wonderful day!