Free dive
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Simple Life!

Winter South Swell!
3′ and perfect!!!

i’m usually up before dark checking the waves every morning. if i know the night before it will be good, i just drive right out without checking. if i know it’s not good, i’ll double check anyway. why? because i don’t like to miss out on anything. this morning, it was just that little dog out on the beach at pipeline. see him?

inomata-san from dove wetsuits sent me this photo. this is a classic photo of the old local motion team in the 80’s. back in the 80’s, local motion had the strongest team in hawaii. can you find todd mitsui and tony moniz in there? classic!

i was sitting at my computer when i heard a mosquito buzzing near my face. i just took a guess and slapped my face to get it away from me. 4 hours later when i went to the bathroom, i seen something black on my forehead. it was the dead mosquito. haha.

i still get asked by so many people “how is japan?” i’ve been the same thing since may, “some places better, some places the same.” this is a part of ishinomaki that’s been looking this for a while now. yeah, i took this photo on M5 in november, 8 months later. pretty sad.